I’ve got the same one. Works and it’s cheap (Rav as well).

Big fan of Kuat but it's pricey. Also there's the swing-out Thule/Yakima/RockyMountain hitch racks that should work with the RAV4 swing out door - double check the swing direction though.

https://www.roofrackstore.com.au/ima...ackStage-7.jpg

I have a Thule rack which clears my rear hatch door without needing to move it, but it also can tilt away from the hatch for extra clearance (tested it and it works with bikes on it, although the product advises not to).

Clearance also depends on how your hitch is mounted and how long the horizontal piece of the rack is that inserts into the hitch.

They also have side swinging racks which could swing out the same direction as your rear side swing door, although typically more expensive. (EDIT: re roastpuff's post above while I was typing this one out.)

Don't forget the security component of the rack, if you always plan to go from A to B with no stops and no potential for someone to steal them off your car when you grab food or coffee.

I did a lot of research before selecting mine and have implemented additional security measures, although nothing is 100% secure if they really want to steal your bikes.

Havent posted in forever, I've working on creating my own vented "Ventech Style" M sport bumper and forged carbon rear valence. The work-in-progress so far. Valence needs to be sanded down smooth once again. Mock-up how the two are coming together so far:

https://scontent.fyvr4-1.fna.fbcdn.n...sg&oe=63EDF122

Nice job

so im confused as hell. when my ratrolla is cold, i check the dip stick and it shows the oil is about 1/2 inch over the full mark. So i bought an oil extractor and removed 1/2 a litre and it was still showing over the full mark...

Then my neighbor told me to start it for a few second and let the system pressurize. Once i did that, and checked it again (with the oil flowing through the system) it shows 1/2 a litre under the min mark.

i dont get it.

According to the manual im suppose to check it after warming it up a few minutes and then let it drain back down into the sump. I did it, now its showing full after i put the oil i sucked out of it back in minus maybe 0.15L
https://i.postimg.cc/qBcQnL12/IMG-9860.jpg

this damn oil extractor is bullshit too. little drops of oil all over the place when its suppose to be "cleaner" than using the drain plug. my ass! those little plastic tubs flying around everywhere and no good place to store them. ended up duct taping them to a ladder to let them drain into my plastic oil pan.

Full cold oil check is wrong. My rule of thumb is drive it around till it's warm, park it on level ground turn if off and check in 5 mins.

So my rule of thumb is probably closest to the Lexus manual. I drive a BMW though, what's a dipstick? looool

When it's cold, the oil has had a lot of time to drain back into the oil pan. So when you started it up, 0.5L got pumped out of the oil pan and up into the engine. When you checked it warm, 0.5L is still sitting up in the engine. Hope that example made sense.

some of you guys following me on IG (@axel.koast) have seen the full ordeal so far but I'm also uploading progress of this on youtube too should anyone in the future want to take this on as well. It's all shorts under this playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...Z0T0lLmrEIlk1O

I want to make a carbon lip for my Datsun.

Like from scratch? It's an involving process, even moreso than skinning since you effectively need to make a mold. I did just a buy a fibreglass GTS/GT4 style lip which I'll be customizing further and skinning in this material again.

dude, get a electric oil pump from amazon

its the same bullshit. the problem isnt the pumping, its the lousy plastic hoses afterwards. they go flailing around and drip motor oil everywhere. i ended up putting them in a plastic bag so they dont make a mess, but its hella annoying.

Why you let them flail around? Wipe the hose with a paper towel, wrap the end with the same paper towel and then saran wrap, use a rubber band to keep it all in place. It is 100% easier than using an oil pan.

EDIT: Also, you're supposed to do it when the oil is warm, it makes it flow WAY easier and leaves less residue in the tube/hose.

badhobz treats oil pump hoses the same way he treats badhobzjr at a urinal

more than 2 shakes you're playing with it bro! :hotbaby:

nah bro, oil pan is way easier. this pump a dump dump isnt my cup-a-oil

I didnt get a single drop of oil anywhere using that oil pan. this extractor thing i got a few drops on my strut tower, a drop on my headlights, and a few drops on the garage floor while trying to pull the lousy tubes in and out.

Pissing me off, i hate making a mess.

Stop doing the helicopter with it ffs

TOUCH THE MOTOR OIL, BE A MAN

On my wrx I just have a Oil Drain valve installed.. Just throw a pan under, open the valve and let her rip.

https://www.mycarworx.com/Images_CC_...-Photo_650.jpg

Are oil changes on your LC not included or did you opt out of the option?

It's complicated dukes... you gotta call Lexus and verify they have a courtesy driver that's willing to take you to Garden City & Alderbridge to kill an hour before picking you up after you've had your oil change.

:suspicious::suspicious:

they only include the first 3 services (first one is just a check, 2nd and 3rd is a service). The rest you gotta PAY!!!!!!!!

i paid outta pocket to get the oil changed at 1000km (just for extra piece of mind) and they overfilled it. Quite common on the LC forums as apparently they just fill w/ a computer setting. my dude obviously didnt check the dipstick afterwards.

Shes at 3600km right now, so ill get them to change it at 9000km afterwards.

Do you expect to drive 9000KM in a year? If not, should it not be that your oil change interval be annual or mileage based, whichever comes first?

Dats tru. I’ll get them to change it this summer. It won’t have 9k before the end of this year at the rate I’m driving it. It’s just a weekend cruiser.