CSG would be Carbotech equivalent iirc for Euro application. Carbotech is good for street/track.

I'm not sure if the recommendation of pads on an 86 would really apply to a F80 M3 as that's a significant weight difference.

Got another recommendation quiet dual duty pad, rated for 7-800C?
Have not found one so far.

DS2500 is only rated for 550C.
Most American OE dual duty is an even weaker "DS2000" on ZL1 (650HP, 3900lb), GT350/500, etc.

Carbotech AX6 is really noisy, only 530C, website says "NOT FOR STREET USE".
Their 1521 dual duty pad is quiet but maxes out at 426C, "NOT FOR ANY TRACK USE".

Edit: I have not tried Powerstop PSA HPDE pads but they're supposedly low noise... just wicked dust and wear.
Rated for 650C.

There's nothing really that can do hard track duty and still be civilized on the street for a car like the F80 at Mission. The amount of energy is simply too great.

The M3 fared a lot better at VIMC as the track is not as brake heavy.

The difference between my MS3 and M3 at Mission is 7 seconds, as in the M3 is 7 seconds faster based on my PB of both cars. Granted the MS3 was on regular summer tires whereas I'm on 200TW with the M3.

I'd put the EBC Blues at the same level as DS2500. The pads from all the brands all typical line up in the same brackets. The bit I'm very happy with the EBC Blues are they still function on the first application even when it's below freezing out. Would the DS2500 be the same? Maybe but I'm happy with the Blues.

I debated whether to get proper track pads this year, but since I didn't go to Mission I decided to skip. I was seriously considering PFC11. The M3 is a kid carrier first and track car third, I kind of want it to be at least somewhat civilized.

Evofire is correct, there is no such thing as a track + street pad in one

As for powerstop PSAs, those are track pads, not street pads. You can drive them on the street, but they will SCREAM

I have a riddle for you guys that understand ignition order

The shitbox has the following listed on the engine bay.
The numbers on the engine bay match the actual ignition coil tags / coil backing plate.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4ae4c11b_b.jpg

The car showed up wired as follows:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...03b0e158_b.jpg

The car starts, and drives without hesitation with the above wiring.

If i try and match the coils to the cylinders, the car will not start / run.

Am i retarded? Why does the car run completely miswired, but when you match up the spark to the cylinder, it does not start?


-------------------------

I checked the EGR, yeah its caked, but all solenoids work and pistons move freely. Probably black from the failed injectors / plugs.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...abea8f78_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8d0a6f36_b.jpg

-----------------------

Ive changed the ignition coils and spark plug wires, car still runs like ass after it is up to temp.

Im officially a parts changer.

Almost ready to throw in the towel on this and drop it off at a shop

--------------------

Someone mentioned the IACV, you would figure this would cause idle only issues, not full throttle bogging.
I removed it, set it to the shut position, put it back in, and removed the wires, the car would obviously die in park, but it ran the same as when its plugged in, like ass.

Uhhh I don’t know what the fuck to say other than WHY WOULD YOU DO THIS TO YOURSELF!?!?! What a pain in the asshole.

^ thank you for saying what I was thinking !!

Everything comes back to anal with you!

I don't think you're retarded, but GM engineers are... my memory is a bit foggy from working on some old GM V6's in a different lifetime, but I believe the ignition coil fires on both sides for these engines... so the cylinder that's firing gets 1 charge, and the other cylinder that shares valve overlap with the firing cylinder gets a secondary charge with the polarity reversed. The numbers, confusingly, are talking about which cylinders are valve overlapped not which way you put the wires on.

Hey, how can we blame the him? He's an anal kinda guy. :woot2:

just seafoam it , like in the intake style seafoam

:troll:

did you buy OEM injectors or shit from amazon

welcome to my world... :lol

https://www.60degreev6.com/vb5/artic...specifications

maybe the placard is just showing your cylinder #

not your firing order which is 1-2-3-4-5-6 LOL

Did GM engineers design your RR as well? :troll:

nah, its full british engineering

inside joke is in 1995 BMW freaked the fuck out after seeing my 2nd gen RR and immediately ordered to design the 3rd gen

Are you sure you don't have the banks flipped? is the rear banks first cylinder closer to the belt than the front banks first cylinder?

This guy knows what he is talking about

You are correct, the intakes cross over each other, and it makes sense because they all match up. You can just barely see the intake tags in the photo below

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a39e5cce_b.jpg

Worse, remanufactured ones from lordco GB or BG i think

TSS

Installed H&R springs and an HKS Hi-Power exhaust

https://i.imgur.com/AewYl42.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/raYShyX.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/XKdUFcY.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/vgZlFDp.jpeg

Picked up a used set of OEM 18" BMW 640M wheels for winter. They were in okay-ish condition but still needed a bit of cleaning.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f2b95b60_b.jpg

Laser clean??? Dam son

+ 100 :ahwow:

thats fucking anal right there. yeah i don't like my car THAT much.... especially since those arent michelins.... pssshhh

Ho lee shiet~! :bowdown:

Where did you get the laser cleaner? And how much? I want one just for fun.

:lawl: lmao what is the matter with u??? do u also dig out every rock and pebble from the tire tread before storing them too???