welp during one of the lash adj i either stripped the adjuster screw or locking nut, made the novice mistake of going straight for the 3/8" torque wrench instead of hand tightening first (14ft/lb)

tried to rethread the nut (it was stripped pretty clean) to m8x1.25 but still not locking

will get a new locking nut and hope it's just that and not the screw (looks okay on visual inspection) as replacing it means taking off the cams

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...stment-959072/

Any resolution to this?

Well.. while we are still diagnosing my car, thought I'd turn to good old RS to gather some opinions. Vehicle is 2013 G37X (AWD)

I have a noise that everyone that has heard it (at my shop) has deemed to be a noise nearly identical to wheel bearing on the left front corner. It occurs @ 80-90KPH on DECEL only. Noise goes away when I accelerate. I believe it goes away when I tap the brakes as well, can't recall exactly.

Noise started ~2-3 weeks after lowering it on springs and putting new wheels/tires. I thought it was maybe tires so I put my *brand new* winter tires on, noise still present.

Work we've done:
Machined front rotors (pads/rotors new from 8k ago, all OEM)
Rear rotors measured, all ok
Check all calipers - all ok
Replace both front wheel bearings (OEM)
Full drivetrain fluid change - no contamination found, fluid in good condition (changed every 30k, OEM fluids)
Transmission fluid changed ~4K ago (OEM fluid)
*Caught noise occuring and immediately lifted on hoist, believed to have heard chatter from T-Case which coincides with what we believed was vibration at middle of vehicle.
->Replaced Transfer Case with known good one with 20,000KM (replaced due to nearing end of powertrain warranty on staff's car)
Noise still present.

Next step:
Check and lube axle splines
Alignment???
We're at a bit of loss. As you can see, quite the expense so far.

Thanks all.

Bit of a reach (and a bit of a stupid thought), but were the strut mounts reused in the lowering spring install? Otherwise, axles could use a recheck if they came out during install.

Axles unhappy with the new angle?

Not a bad thought. I will clarify, we transferred over a complete strut assembly with the lowering spring already compressed. It came off a friend's car that was unfortunately written off (tree damage, not accident) so we did not have to decompress the springs or take anything apart - straight swap with my complete struts. Axles were not removed from the vehicle, only out of the wheel bearing when we pulled the knuckle with wheel bearing back during re&re

The exact same set up was on an identical car with no issues over the course of 1+ years. At this time, we have had little reason to suspect an axle however given how much they are on RockAuto vs OEM (1/5 of the price), I may go ahead and replace the left front axle anyways.

The other cars axles may have been in better shape than yours though. If it was close to going out before the change then the new angle may have accelerated it. If your buddy still has the wrecked car maybe try swapping his on?

Maybe double check everything is tight and there's no signs of tire rub or something too.

anyone recommend a good indy shop that can work on toyota/lexus? Specifically air suspensions :(

got 2 questions!

1) anyone have recommendations for a shop to do a timing belt job for 2004 lexus es 330 in Coquitlam or maybe Burnaby?

2) Recently did an alignment (not the lexus) , but i'm looking upgrade from a 205/55/16 setup to a 225/45/17. Should I do another alignment?
-new setup is slightly heavier than original (not sure if that matters)
-old setup has +45 offset, i think my new setup is a +42 or +40 offset

Thanks :)

Why would you need an alignment going slightly up in wheel size unless it's camber to clear fenders?

That's why be posed his question, "should I..."

Does anyone have a suggestion for a shop that does threaded inserts on engine heads? My expedition shot it's #2 spark plug out and would prefer to get a threaded insert vs helicoils (if I were to diy). Going to drop a borescope inside to see how bad it is but would like to have a few shops in mind.

1998 Acura Integra, SE Automatic

Does anyone have advice on how to prolong the life of these Automatic B series transmissions? Which fluids / additives do you prefer for Honda automatics?

I am very gentle on it, especially when in stop/go traffic or even starting from a light. Car has 160,000 KM and does not slip which is nice... however I have no service history on the transmission and I would like it to last as long as possible.

I think auto Honda's need the Honda ATF to last. Haven't come across any cocktails to make them last even longer.

I think the formula for the current Honda transmission fluid has changed but I'm not sure if it's been changed to also accommodate legacy vehicles.

Drain and fill with Honda ATF, that's pretty much it

2001 Lexus IS300, 190k km, auto, all stock. (I like to think it's well maintained!)

Issue:
- Once the car is fully warmed up, it will STALL. (15 mins or so).
- Doesn't matter if you are in Drive, Parked, idling or driving. It will stall.
- Car won't start up again until it has cooled down.

Recent work:
- Spark plug, wires, ignition coils changed (all)
- Tried swapping MAF with a working IS300, no change experiencing the stalls
- I've noticed it did stall in the past while I was parking (idle speeds) but it would always start back up. Problem happened after I put all the new plugs, wires, coils in.

Any chance someone here has experienced this before? I've been stranded with the car like this twice and pretty annoyed I cannot trust it. Thank you.

I assume it cranks but doesn't fire? Do the warning lights come on (ECU has power) or is the cluster dark? Does your car have the little diagnostic box like the older Toyotas or is it too new for that?

I had a similar issue with my Celica that turned out to be a flakey EFI main relay in the engine bay fuse box. It was fine when cold but as soon as the car warmed up it would start cutting out which cut power to the fuel pump.

Yeah, the car cranks but doesn't fire. All electronics work. No CELs pop up. It does have a OBD port for a scanner.

So odd I got all these issues after doing preventative maintenance with new plugs/wires/ignitors.

Did you check the spark plug gap, when you installed the new spark plugs?

everything connected back properly? sounds to me like its a coolant temp sensor related or o2 sensor related

Could be as soon as it warms up and goes into closed loop, a sensor or solenoid is enough out of whack to cause it to stall but not enough to trigger a check engine light. If this is the case if you had to you could force a check engine light on by unplugging something like an o2 sensor. You really need to have a scanner with live data to watch and see what's out of range. If you don't have that I'd swap the old parts back on and see what happens.

I've seen a similar issue where the vehicle would stall when the engine got warm. It would crank but refuse to start until the motor was cooled, a crank position sensor solved the issue.

Might be worth investigating.

I've also seen an issue where when the motor is warm it would be difficult to restart and that was the MAF sensor. I don't remember it stalling out though.

Does anyone have a Gorilla 1921sd-key lug nut key I could borrow for a day or two? The previous owner of my car didn’t give me one.

https://s.yimg.com/aah/brandsportinc...g-nuts-250.jpg

Most lordcos in the lower mainland have these in stock.

Revscene cost is $11.28 plus tax. Not a bad investment for a roadside emergency.