PM'd! THANK YOU!!!!

I began to hear a high pitched squealing noise when I turn right at slow speeds. Any ideas what this may be? Car is a 2004 Acura EL for reference.

I checked my power steering fluid and it's topped up all the way. CV Joints? ball joints? Wheel bearing?

If it's coming from the engine compartment, check the belts. If its coming from the wheels, check that the backing plates aren't touching the rotors and no rocks are stuck in between.

so when the car is not moving, there is no squealing noise? and it only does it when turning right? :confused:

if it was the power steering, won't it do it whether it's moving or not, and when steering in any direction?

i don't think it could be ball joints.

i'm also with fliptuner on there possibly being contact with something metal, such as the brake disc or the wheel touching something... but it's not doing it in a straight line?

how are the brake pads? could just be the squealers starting to contact

Just replaced the belts a month ago. I'll check the rotors tomorrow morning.
That's a good point. Although the sounds seem to be coming from the front, I know my rear pads were running low. I'll check that out. Nothing is heard in a straight line. Only turning right at the moment.

yeah 77civic1200 might be on to something. pads will shift as you turn, so it might be one of the outboard pads on the right side that is making contact?

Any suggestions for getting a car door to open that's stuck shut? Lock seems to function correctly but I can't get the door to open, and I can't remove the interior panel with the door shut.

slim jim?

otherwise....

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/i...U8-L7R6L6IjFgw

The lock might work but is it unlatching? If not, you might have to macgyver a wire hook to release the latch.

I had a similar problem with my driver side door during the winter. During a certain combination starting the car with the remote starter, unlocking the door, and not stepping on the brake pedal to disable the remote starter, the door thinks someone is trying to break into the car. As a result, the door can't be opened for a few hours. I just had to wait it out.

However, if the latch is stuck, you're not in a good shape. I hear of a guy who had to cut-out the internal panel to get to the latch and lock mechanism. I don't know if anyone has a tool to do that without cutting.

I'm with flip tuner. Is is the lock mechanism, or the latch which works properly? If you can access the rod from the inside which runs the latch mechanism you may be able to jangle something up.

The car isn't anything fancy (1992 Celica), and it hasn't got a remote start or immobilizer in it. I'm operating on the assumption that the lock is functioning as turning the key moves the lock/unlock lever inside the car, but that the latch is stuck. Both the lock and latch feel normal though so I can't be sure which of them (if either) are working. I've tried pulling the handle all the way and slamming my shoulder into the door but no dice, so it could be both that are messed up.

I'd try a slim jim but I thought those only popped the lock? As much as I'd hate to do it I might just get a replacement door card from Pick and Pull and cut this one open

My motor has been having funky idle issues (slightly rough idle) for awhile now, not so much fluctuating idle rpms, more so minor misfiring which can be heard from the exhaust. I cleaned the TB the other day for the first time since 2004 and it did make somewhat of a noticeable difference.

Long story short, sometimes when shifting from park to drive, or reverse to drive, or revving in P (lol), the rpms drop lower than idle before they get back up to normal idle rpm. Yesterday while driving away from a parking spot on the street, I shifted from park to drive and the engine stalled. What could this generally be a sign of?

any MAF issues?

'04 Elements didn't come with MAF, has MAP on the TB

Might be worth mentioning IACV is brand new, IM was removed within 20,000kms ago fully cleaned with new gaskets. IM is from a TSX (larger plenum) with a custom SRI intake, with catless RH and catback, I was thinking probably ignition issues given that I'm not running a tune with all these bolt-ons but might be something else. Seems to be a common thing for slightly older Hondas based on what I've read online.

Sensors, plugs, wires.... A bit of a guessing game.

I have a feeling it might be the air flow sensor.
When was the last time you changed your spark plugs? I guess you can take one out to see if it's dirty.

Do you have an OBD scanner? Plug it in to see if there are any warnings.

Spark plugs are probably due for a change, but the last time I checked around 10,000kms ago they looked fine.

No codes at all.

Pretty dumb electronic question here but I need to know.

My trunk light is a 194 bulb. I had some 921 leds kicking around as spares for my reverse light so I tried em out to see if they'd fit in the trunk's bulb socket housing because brighter light. They did fit (the projector end is kinda making it damn hard to remove the housing tab now cus it's right up against the push tab lol) so I just said fuck it I'm leaving em as the trunk light.

Is this ok? I mean, am I doing damage here? The 921 leds are 12V if that means anything.

Since they are LED's I'm going to assume they are of way lower wattage then the incise scent standard bulb. You should be fine. They also don't produce much heat so if the bulb is right up against plastic it shouldn't damage anything. I'd say your fine.

Yes, you're fine, just as long as the new bulbs wattage is equal or lower than the stock bulbs. Being LED, the power draw should be pretty low.

Does anyone know if Canadian Tire or Lordco stock the angel eye replacement bulbs for a 2006 BMW E90 sedan?

Perhaps consider calling them...?

If you know what bulb type the E90 uses for its angel eyes (it would be halogen), then it would be a piece of cake to find.