black in all situations. daytime, night time, lo-beam on, lo-beam off.
Display on the dash shows its normal info when not in reverse, so i don't think it's the display. Another reason why i don't think it's display is because the guidelines show up.

Anyone with a 2015 civic willing to let me test my camera on their car? I'll take mine out, then plug it into your car to test. Mine is a sedan, but I don't think that matters for testing purposes.

Is it out of warranty already?... damn.
try checking the wires inside the loom, where it flexes where the trunk hinge area is. Anywhere the wire loom normally bends is a possible chance of broken wire.
I'm not familiar with any service menus or self-diag procedures, but i found this https://www.civinfo.com/forum/how-gu...ll-models.html and maybe it can help if you can check it before you replace anything...

if the wiring checks out ok, i agree the likely failed part may be the camera itself. Low chance of being the screen/audio unit assembly.

Depending on how accessible things are I'd check the continuity of the video signal wire from the camera to the head unit and check for power and ground at the camera.

What shops still test alternators, out of the car?

Oh. I had my alternator checked by a guy off 12th near maintstreet. Tested and new components installed in an hour or two. I was
So fricken impressed. Good price too. I’ll google maps it. Middle eastern guy ran the joint, but what he called “the surgeon” I think was a Vietnamese guy. I forgot to leave a google review I was so impressed haha.

Edit

Ashnat Starters and Alternators
541 E Broadway, Vancouver, BC V5T 1X4

^does your receipt say how much for the test by itself?

i ran into insufficient juice to start the motor even with only 5-10 minutes of HID low-beam on
changed the battery
now not enough juice even after 2 minutes of radio?!
dash cam parking mode cuts off after battery drops below 12.4v

how do I investigate what's draining my battery vs an alternator dying

You have a multimeter? If so, idle the car, should be around 14 volts.
What you using to cut off dash cam? I've had a power magic pro fail, causing parasitic draw

it's a higher end Lukas unit and has the cut-off built in, I will turn off parking mode and observe
edit: at most though, it records maybe an hour or three in parking mode...so unless it's still drawing power when off it's likely not the issue

Brighouse electric in Richmond near the river rock should still bench test IIRC

2005 Matrix XR automatic (1ZZ-FE) is refusing to crank. Trying to jump it had no effect, the battery puts out 12V, there's 12V to the main starter post at all times and 12V on the trigger wire when turned to Start, but the starter does absolutely nothing (no clunks or clicks or anything). I tried triggering the starter directly (jumper from main post to trigger) and adding a temporary ground from the block to the battery and nothing at all from the starter.

Is it safe to say the starter is pooched and buy a new one or is there anything else I should try first?

edit: I yanked it out since it's super easy, using some wire and the battery the solenoid seems to work fine as the gear moves in and out? The thick wire from the solenoid to the actual motor is pretty corroded though.

There should be a starter solenoid replacement contacts kit you can get from Toyota, iirc....
I never knew until after i replaced a few starters lol...
Common click but no crank on the Corollas and Matrixes with the 1ZZ-FE

I don't even get a click, just the auxiliary circuits shutting off and the hum of the fuel pump.

Looking at the online list price for the solenoid and knowing how much the dealer here marks stuff up I can get a complete Denso reman'd starter (Denso is the OEM supplier) from RockAuto for the same price. I can find solenoid kits on RockAuto but they're brands I've never heard of and the Denso starter is only $35 more. They also don't look to come with the cable to connect the solenoid to the motor and with how corroded the old one looks I don't want to reuse it.

Sounds like the plunger disc or contacts in the solenoid are bad.

If the solenoid actuates with 12v and the motor spins with 12v, independently but not simultaneously, the disc or contacts in the solenoid aren't connecting 12v from the batt terminal to the starter motor.

http://bigtoys.free.fr/IMAGESELECTRI...UR%20ANIME.gif

My life seems to be constant mechanical issues, this time it's an AN fitting going to an oil cooler and I know nothing about AN stuff. I didn't build these lines so I can't speak to how it was put together, but basically the seam in this picture marked by a 3 (where #1 and #4 meet) seems quite sloppy and the leak will vary as I move the cooler around. Is there anything I can adjust or do I need a new line/fitting? I tightened up #4 to #7 but looking at the diagram I don't think that would have any impact.

http://www.highperformanceracingpart...iesGraphic.jpg

Looks like you will have to replace the fitting. I'm not familiar with the type of fitting you have but I would say that #3 is a steel ring to allow #1 to pivot independent on the #4 and 7 body. The heat from the transmission probably has hardened the #2 o-rings and they are leaking. You will need to replace the hose too unless you have enough length to cut for a new connection.

That's what I figured, the stupid thing is that it's the ones that are at the cooler end that are leaking, and my oil temps typically stay pretty low. I need to shorten these lines anyways so it's not a huge deal, just annoying.

Yes, it is a pain to have to remove the hose and change the fitting, but it's something to keep you busy in your spare time :D.

Don't forget to use compressed air to blow out the hose after you change the fitting. Some hydraulic places shoot a foam plug through the hose to clean out the rubber grit from installing the main part of the fitting.

This is an aftermarket AN fitting?

The ones I built, are literally a rubber hose (steel braided cover), which slides over #4. Then #7 is slide over top of the hose and tightened down. If it’s a swivel joint, and leaking from the “swivel”, I’d say your in for a fitting replacement.

My problem is I have no spare time haha. It's taken me months to get the time to get done what I used to bang out in a day in the garage. I've had to assemble a couple fittings before but not one of these swivel ones, I usually flush them with some cheap version of whatever fluid it's for to get the crud out. If I'm lucky I can let gravity drain some oil out to flush it and I won't have to fully remove the line.

$@hud I think that's how these lines are too, looking at it and this diagram more they're the same as the 2 piece fittings, just with a swivel piece instead of a solid lump with male or female threads for #4. It's an aftermarket fitting so I assume they're all designed roughly the same way.

Hoping some of you Honda gurus can help me. My Integra had an intermittent start issue where sometimes it wouldnt start when it sat in the rain for a while or it would stall when I drive through a car wash (unless I rev it up).

I was going to drive it out the other day and it drove fine for the first trip and I parked it at home. 2nd trip, I drive it out, rpm dips and it stalls outside my driveway. Now, I am unable to get it to start. There is no spark coming to the spark plugs. I've replaced the distributor cap, checked the grounds on top of the thermostat and the one on the valve cover (frayed ground wiring) and still no luck.

I noticed there was some brown rust like corrosion in the dizzy behind the dust cover. I'm thinking I might need a new one?

There's a bunch of youtube videos on how to check your ignitor module and ignition coil both can be replaced instead of buying the whole distributor.

I'm just wondering if there might be another issue other than the dizzy? It just sounds strange cause I haven't had any misfiring issues.

try lightly sanding that "brown rust" off the contacts and see if it makes a difference. if no spark plugs are getting spark, it has to be the ignition coil or module, unless its the bad ground... uve already narrowed it down so run some tests before u blindly throw some money into it.

If you want to rule out grounding, use jumper cables to make a couple temporary grounds right to the battery.

Just made a ground from the valve cover to battery since the wire was frayed but still no luck. Going to order a new ICM and coil. Hopefully that fixes everything.

Note: I just checked the ICM and coil again, the metal around the ICM has this fiberous reddish brown corrosion around it. I'm guessing water may have gotten in