That has been ruled out. Tested it and it was over 14v. That night when it died I discover the spark plug wire on one of the cylinder was lose. Perhaps it just stall at low speed. Hasn't happened again.

Over fill the tranny with some motul gear 300 I had lying around and knocking while in gear got a lot quietly so I'm thinking its transmission related

I'm suspecting a cracked flywheel now or worse mess up gearing=\

Anyone can recommend a shop for inspection?
my nephew just bought a 1996-1998 civic hatch and wants to make sure everything checks out or wants to know what needs to be replaced.. its pretty much stock so not looking for a high performance shop coz I think that will be costly...


Thanks

Any particular city he is looking to get it done?
speed syndicate is in Burnaby.
There's quite a few in Richmond too like hbl autosports, a&j, etc

Fluids, brakes, wheel bearings, tires, leaks, CV's, CEL (if any), alignment/suspension, maybe compression.

Not much to check, really. Any competent shop should be fine.

how much would they charge?
He lives in BBY

Any recommendations for tire mounting and balancing in richmond? Don't want to scratch the lips

Garage5 if they do it or DHP

Sorry I don't know. Call their shop to get a quote.

Speed syndicate guarantees no scratching. I think it says it in one of their threads on these forums. Might be worth the drive to you since the shop guarantees it.

Yesterday my car was making loud noise while braking even driving sometimes, noise is coming from the brake/wheel, sounds like trawler engine :/
Any idea what could happen? break pad worn out?
Though the maintenance is due at mid october, last time i checked break pad was ok.

Did you check the inner pads?

Most likely inner brake pads have just started making contact with squealer tabs.

Does anyone have a 32mm wrench + fan clutch tool that I could borrow? (removing fan from e39) Or anywhere I could buy them locally?

http://www.360save.net/eBay/TL31184/1.jpg

Check if CT loans them out

I was having this issues a couple of weeks ago. Was just debris caught between the pad and the rotor.

I was switching out of my winters over the weekend and noticed that on my front driver's side wheel, the lug nuts weren't coming off smoothly...on the other three wheels, i just had to loosen them a bit and then I could pretty much spin them off with a flick of my fingers. The front one for some reason wasn't as smooth coming off the 5 studs. Thought nothing of it finished switching the other wheels but then decided to take it off again just to take a closer look at the studs.

Studs looked ok, wasn't shiny looking like the other three wheels were but the nuts were threading in properly. I did have a hard time removing the wheel again for some reason after i took off all the nuts the second time, had to kick at it pretty hard. This was just after shifting the car a foot or so after just installing my all season sets.

I don't think any cross threading happened, this is the first time i've switched from winters on this car and 2nd time the tires have been switched in this car's lifetime.

Is this something to worry about? Should i put something on the studs to make sure the lugs come off with ease the next time i switch to winters?

Wire brush the studs, hub and hub bore.

There's debate on the use of anti-seize on studs and wheel contact areas. I've used it on all my cars for years, without issue but ymmv. The main point is to keep them corrosion free.

i saw that
something to do with it affecting torquing

i've never used it on any of my previous cars...though fwiw, my older cars had lug nuts that didn't come off smoothly either.

i just thought it odd that 3 wheels came off fine and smooth but one wheel didn't...i'll check it out again this weekend and give it a good scrub

having lived in a winter climate, changing tires sucks if the the lug bolts haven't been anti-siezed and good luck if you're trying to do it on the side of the road with the factory tire changing tools. I read up on the endless debates and like so many things in life, found the middle ground. Anti-seize the threads and hub bore but not the bolt faces or hub faces. Every season when I change them, no problem getting them off and when I check the torque spec 100km after installation and periodically through the winter/summer, torque spec is bang on. The comment that made sense to me was that any surface that could experience lateral movement (bolt faces, rim/hub faces) shouldn't be lubricated.

as stated previously YMMV

I used my strap wrench. Pretty handy little devices.

Mastercraft 2-pack Boa Constrictor Strap Wrench | Canadian Tire

I gave mine away with my E36 (used it to to take off centre caps). Reminds me I should buy more. They are super handy.

i've got a 15 civic just past 30k kms that's been my daily for 2 years now

couple of questions

Would you recommend reusing the cabin and air filters?
it's ~$60 for new OEM ones but if vacuuming em clean would last another couple years, i don't see the point of buying new ones

Changing MTF, how often is this done now?
Says every 40k kms for CVT but I can't find anything about MT Intervals on the site
On my previous dd I was doing it every past 60k kms

New cars use the AC so often that I'd be just as concerned with mold/mildew build up, as I would dust.

You can find aftermarket cabin air filters on Amazon for <$15.

hmmm that's true, i never thought of that
partly cus all my previous DD's never had AC's lol

Yeah, most new cars use the AC once you turn it to defrost.

From my understanding, civic cabin filters are easy enough to get to, that you can inspect them pretty easily.

My gf's mazda3 requires glovebox and fusebox removal, so I change it on a schedule.

edit: answer my own stupid question.