I ordered a pair of those overlap style clamps, the space I'm working in doesn't leave a lot of wiggle room but worst case I can always modify to fit. It's always lovely when what should be a simple bolt-in job ends up taking multiple weeks and multiple orders of every piece you need.

For the electrical issues I'd do the testing mentioned. If it only happens after a few days of sitting a weak battery or excess parasitic draw seem the most likely options.

Not really mechanical but hoping some of you audio gurus can help me. I had an Alpine single din in my integra and I am changed it out to a DVD alpine double din. The harness was just plug and play from the old unit to the new one. However, since my old unit was a single din, I noticed that the harness didn't have the "parking brake" wire. How would I go about adding this wire to the harness? I tried to plug a wire inside and ground to test but that did not work. Thanks!

Try posting in the Audio section.

https://www.revscene.net/forums/audi...urity-tech_10/

The clamps arrived and diameter-wise seem to fit perfectly, that's again to hud_91gt for suggesting those.

Of course one showed up missing a bolt so I can't install them yet, but at this point I'm not even surprised.

hey where did u purchase your door actuators?
I'm currently looking at buying on amazon from of those chinese oem parts dealers

fleebay less than 20$

i was worried about going non-oem and failing again but it's been like 5 years

battery's good, alternator working great, yet unable to find parasitic draw

even if it's the aftermarket radio/dash cam/reverse cam, it's unlikely for me to pull any of those out so probably just gonna find the largest capacity battery that fits and call it a day/drive it once a week

think i managed to break the door adjar switch/sensor while doing all this...good thing it's a $5 part if it needs to be replaced

You need a 12v signal. Not gnd.

How strong are camber plates? I went to trace one of my Cusco plates and noticed it was warped slightly, I'm going to be a bit hard on it and since it keeps my front wheel upright I realllly don't want it to fail. A pair of OEM-style KYBs is only $125 delivered so if they tend to be a lot stronger I'll do that.

Vehicle: 2002 Ford Focus SVT 6spd

Problem: 1. When cold, if you don’t let it warm up really good, the car tends to buck a bit in 1st gear and sometimes 2nd gear while on throttle. Idles very nicely, not too high. Solution is to just let it warm up properly or drive for 30 seconds and it goes away

Problem 2: when at cruising speed (in relation to gear) at a very minimal throttle input the motor can surge slightly. For example, If you’re in 6th gear cruising at 110kmh, you only need maybe 5% throttle input to maintain speed. What happens is you get a small surfing RPM. My wife just slightly notices, and it’s not as bad as problem 1.

Vehicle still drives fantastic, WOT is great, no noticeable drop of power or fuel consumption. No weird sounds or smells etc.

Solutions: my time is pretty short lately so proactive advice would be useful. Start with throttle body cleaning I suppose. Does this sound like a possible minor vacuum leak? I don’t think it’s ignition based since at any other throttle input it’s smooth and powerful

Double post

My guess is a TPS issue. With my minimal tuning experience a wacky acceleration enrichment will give you some odd habits. It’s not like your AE in your tune has changed, but the ECU thinking it should accelerate with a funky TPS could cause this. Just a complete guess though.

You might be able to test it with a multimeter (not an auto ranging one). Disconnect the pigtail and figure out which leads to connect to on the TPS(there is probably 3). With The throttle body closed you’ll get either a low or high resistance. As you open the TB, the resistance should get greater (or lower) in a very steady manner without lots of jumping around. Very very slowly open and close tie TB testing this resistance.

That’s all I got.

reviving this from the dead. haha.

I got a question.
I just put on a pair of bolt on spacers on my car and I'm just worried about the bolts seizing up later on when I want to take the spacer off. Any precautions or steps I should take to prevent this?

As for the spacer and the hub; I put spreaded some copper antiseize lube, hope that prevents them being seized together.

Thanks

Everything comes apart with a torch and hammer

Do you drive the car in the winter? Anti-seize should be good enough. This might be a lot of work for you but for me, I'd take the spacers off every few months just to minimize the chances of them seizing onto the hub

^ thanks! Yeah the spacers are temporary until I get my set of wheels with the correct offset

Why would the bolts seize to the nuts holding the spacer on? Do your wheel nuts seize to them?

I am pretty sure he meant the spacer itself seizing onto the hub, much like how wheels can seize onto the hub which I've seen before

^actually I'm worried about both.

The nuts seizing onto the bolts that holds the spacer on to the hub and the spacer itself seizing onto the hub.

I was already looking into buying another set of hubs just in case I can't get the spacer off the hub.

Again, why would it seize? They're just lugnuts holding a hunk of metal on, the same way it was doing with your wheels. Absolutely worst case you snap the studs off and just pop new studs into the hub. No need to buy spare hubs for the most complicated way to fix something that's not very likely to happen.

What's a normal operating temperature range for engine oil? I'm worried about maintaining temp with the external cooler in the winter since I know oil that's too cold is no bueno.

What about it are you worried about? I’m assuming the cooler is thermostat controlled. I don’t think we would get weather cold enough (even where you are) to really get oil in the cooler so cold it’s an issue. If your really worried, cover the cooler in the winter months. I don’t think their is any harm in cold oil other then it will be thicker, and obviously not flow through the engine as nice. I’d asuspect
Maybe a little higher Psi to be expected and that about it.

I'm worried about the oil being too thick to properly lubricate things for an extended period of time, thus causing wear or damage. I don't think this cooler setup has a thermostat, I believe it's always flowing. In town here it's fine but I could see it experiencing the negative 20's when out in the mountains, coming down from the ski hill it's highway speeds but zero load for like a half hour straight.

If the oil is too cold I was considering either covering up the cooler, mounting a fan set up so it tries to push air out the front of the vehicle (no idea if it'll work I just remember hearing about people wiring their fans backwards by accident and overheating) or just looping the lines together (my last choice as it'll be messy).

No thermostat would actually help your worry. You’d have a constant flow of hot oil being circulated, versus oil being trapped by the thermostat (when closed) and cooling down to ambient temperature. In airplanes in Manitoba AMEs would put covers on the oil coolers when it got really cold, but this is -40’s and cruising at 200 knots. If it’s an aftermarket cooler and the car is meant to run without one, I’d just cover it up during those cold times. Fan moving backwards would work but seems awfully complicated.

Stock the car has a cooler block that has engine coolant circulating through it. I'll try different amounts of covered when it gets cold and see how it does, the only reason I liked the fan idea was so I could switch it off without having to remove stuff to get to the cooler.