Finally got around to installing the coilovers I bought months ago, amazing how much better it rides and feels now. Replacing the stock adjustable suspension is not only insanely annoying to do but way too expensive; suspension has come a long way in 35 years anyways. The best part of the whole thing was seeing how into it my 5 year old son was, he was happy to hear there will be many more "projects" while owning a finicky old car.

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NISSAN AL-GHAAAIIIBB!!!

Raising the next gen of RS'ner right.

Is that like a sexual transmitted diseases?

LOL

I thought it said I love HDPE

He loves hope for another term of Liberal leadership :troll:

Replace 4 fuel injectors, car runs good. Misfire is gone. :fuckyea:
Bank 5 must have been partially clogged, or mechanically failing. They all ohmed out the same.

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Had to replace the high pressure fuel lines, new ones straight up gushed all over the engine, thanks to being faulty from factory. Ended up installing old ones, no more gush.
Photo attached, this is what the new line looked like. (Not centered)

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I was worried i had a failed spring/lifter, does not seem to be the case. All 8 working well on bank 1.
I did find one of the springs, the color does not match the rest.
:seriously: maybe it snapped before my life time.

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Anyways, took the car out, runs good, pulls good.

those of you who understand long term fuel trim:

The car now shows a negative 8% fuel trim on bank 1.
What are your thoughts behind this?

-I dont have data as to how the fuel trims ran before i had misfires.
-Im thinking the new injector orifices are slightly larger, causing it to feed more fuel. Hence it operating at -8%. (Bank 2 is always about 6-8% higher than bank 1. Usually around 0%)

Next step is to replace the right bank, with the same fuel injector part#, and see if it balances out. Or do i just leave it as is?

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I'm not a specialist, but perhaps give it some time for the ECU to "re-learn" and adapt to all the changes.

On the other hand, this feels like a, "While you're in there..." type of job. :p

I highly suggest PPF'ing the pillars. The piano black plastic is made of playdoh and will scratch even if you as much as look at it.

The cheap bastard in me already convinced me to replace 4 instead of 1, i dont think my jewness can go all 8.

But you are correct, that probably would have sorted my issues

I had a similar issue on my E30. On cold startup, it would take forever to start. But once warm, car would start fine. After a lot of diagnosing, it turned out to be a faulty fuel injector and it was really hard to detect/diagnose. I only wanted to replace one injector, but the cost to ship cost as much as all 6 injectors, so I replaced them all.

Report back on how it goes!

Edit: WTF on the new high pressure fuel lines? Is this...a design flaw or straight up bad batch from the factory? I'd be curious to know if the part is shared with other models (I assume yes.) Damn it, GM! :seriously:

I don't know much about really modern ECUs, but modernish ones after you do anything like that you always wanted to disconnect the battery to clear anything it had learned, then drive it a bit to relearn afterwards before worrying about anything.

Did you pull the spark plugs? did they look even across that bank? might take a bit to clean out that cylinder before the fuel trims even out. Might be worth giving it an italian tune up before you clear out the long term fuel trim data

Never heard the term italian tune up before, but im keeping it for my dictionary now

Plugs/wires are new on bank 1, existing were fairly clean.

Il report back after abusing it a little. If that does not work il try the underscore method

Italian tune ups are great for vehicles that get too many short commutes and not enough proper driving. I've fixed a few things with those.

Can you Italian tuneup a turbo? I feel like if you having issues with a turbo car, doing a Italian tuneup on one is just gonna blow shit up.

On a NA I totally get it.

Or an EV? Can you Italian tuneup my EV?

Or even direct injection engines

I did nothing today but clean one floor mat but this is probably a good place to put my question since the DIYer's would see this.

What you vw/Audi ppl using for vag-com? VCDS? OBDII? New to the VAG's :alone: but few things I'm hoping can be adjusted is
1) the height that my headlight cutoff is at when driving. Current headlights does a sweep upon start up, but when I'm moving, it moves too low for my liking. Other drivers blind me, so I want to blind them too.
2) see if there's a hidden option when I put it in reverse to display the parking sensors rather than just go by ear.
3) remap the throttle pedal, feels like turbo lag every time I'm trying to move from a stop and I don't even have a turbo! Left turns are sketchy if I'm trying to make a quick turn.

#3 cannot/will not be solved by VCDS/OBD11.

It is not turbo lag but rather the transmission not being engaged (clutch open) and having to engage when you get on the gas.

Are you DSG? What mode are you in? If DSG, and you want to have a quick response, shift into S or manual which will reduce clutch lockup time and have a better response. Otherwise, give the car a tiny bit of gas, just enough to creep, to engage the transmission and tell the car brain "hey doofus I'm going to start moving"

In D, the car is trying to be smooth so clutch engagement is slower than normal.

Basically, I often shift into S at stoplights/unprotected left turns to make sure that the car response is optimized.

If that is not enough, I suggest getting a TCU tune.

why so gay!? just tell us what VAG car you got!!!!!!:yuno:

In what scenario is the tranny disconnecting a good idea?

BMW does disconnect the tranny, but only in Eco Pro mode and it only disconnects when coasting. When you get back on the throttle you could feel the engine and tranny getting back up to speed. I mean yes it saves gas but damn that can't be good for the tranny.

Why? If the engine matches the speed it shouldn't be a big deal right?

It's not disconnecting, it's a dual clutch so the clutches are open - it's like when you drive a manual and have to release the clutch at a light...

You're trying to compare an auto with torque converter (ZF) with a manual transmission.

100% ^

That's why you would never hold a car on a hill using the engine if your car has DSG.