That too but more importantly, for play.

Shit, forgot to add more sounds:

There's some "squish" sounds going over bumps at low speeds, as well as a shk-shk-shk sounds coming from the wheel-well area, audible under 40km/h.

Hi all, I need it to remove strut bar on my BMW.

Anyone near Knight bridge area have a E-Torx (External Torx) in size 11 and 14 that I can borrow?

I read that you can use a twelve point socket in-place of the E-Torx socket, anyone recommend this?

Installed my SS brake lines on my speed3 today. Managed to installed 3/4 of the lines. I could not remove the line going to the caliper on the front passenger side. I rounded the 13mm nut a little bit and decided to quit before doing more damage. The way the line is positioned, I couldn't slip on a 13mm flared wrench so I just used various 13mm wrenches with no luck. I already blasted it with PB Blaster and let it sit for a while before attempting to take remove the nut.

Any advice on how to take this nut out?

I read that Snap-on Flank Drive Plus wrenches seem to work pretty good for these type of nuts. Anyone have a 13mm that I can borrow? Else I guess I could try vice grips and risk mangling the nut. Last resort would be to cut the line and use a socket extractor on the nut.

I spent days on my old rusty datsun lines. Special wrenches didn't have a chance, a shit ton of heat from a propane torch and some good vice grips were the only thing that saved me. Heat was the biggest factor. Cutting the line and using a socket is a great option too.

A rotational whirring noise like a helicopter has been getting progressively louder coming from the rear. Doesn't growl like a bad wheel bearing, just a loud hollow "wom wom wom wom" kind of sound, increases in pitch as speed increases and does not change pitch or increase in volume when turning a particular way. The sound is present as soon as the car starts moving and the sound is present in neutral as well. I'm skeptical if they are the wheel bearings, more so the tires as I have -5.5 degrees of camber in the rear and my tires are obviously wearing a lot quicker on the inside than the outside.

Is this just unevenly wearing tires making this sound? Or would you guys say it's the wheel bearings?

On an unrelated note, accelerating while turning from a stop I've been getting loud continuous clicking/popping noises until I finish the turn from the front wheels, just the CV axles are going? I have some CV axles ready to go that have been sitting for awhile, but my current ones look fine, boots aren't torn, doesn't drive particularly funky. Should I replace it now?

Sounds like a wheel bearing. If you think it is the tire rotate the rear tire to the front and drive again. Also have someone sit in the back and see if it is the left or right. If your car is a rear wheel drive and it sounds like the middle, then it might be the diff. As for the popping noise it is usually the the cv joints.

Got the issue checked, turns out both rear tires are scalloped to hell (unsurprisingly given the amount of camber I was running with the amount of driving I do) and are nearly at the wear bars on the inner tread, going to order two of the same tires for the rear as my front tires are essentially still new and wearing very evenly.

Also, I've decided to get rid of the -5.5 degrees of rear camber. Don't want to go through rear tires every 25,000kms and think of how much better my car could handle every time I take a higher speed corner. Going to have to play with fitment again, hopefully won't have to rework the rear fender or get narrower spacers to accommodate the flush look without camber.

Bumping this back up, need help again :alone:

Just got my CV axles replaced, alignment dialed in, newish tires (getting one side checked I suspect there might be some uneven wear because I can hear it), but right after I got the CV axles replaced I've been getting a shudder/vibration through the entire front end while accelerating once the transmission shifts to second gear around 2000rpm or so. The entire front end and steering feels extremely loose, transmission fluid needs to be flushed and replaced soon, checked the wheel bearings multiple times they are fine. What could the issue be? Improperly installed CV axles?

^ never a bad idea to double check the installation if the issue started after you had em replaced



Not sure if i'm tripping but i'm getting hints of coolant smell in my 95 teg's cabin when i turn on the heat. It's doesn't happen immediately after i turn on the heat...maybe after about 5 minutes or so, i'll get a hint of coolant smell and then it would disappear. Just noticed this last week.

i've noticed that i've lost some coolant last month...pretty miniscule amounts though, i had to put in probably about 3/4 of a cup into the reservoir as i noticed it was under the min line last month. Filled it up to halfway between min and max last month and now it's just two fingers over min again (not sure how much of a loss that is but it would've happened in 3 weeks)

rad system and water pump was replaced more than 4 years ago, the coolant was flushed and replaced 2 years ago, I've been meaning to do a flush and catch up on maintenance but i just haven't had the time.

Any idea what this could be? I'm praying its not a heater core...I've checked both sides and it doesn't look like i have coolant on the floor or under the dash.

My old 3 series had more heater core issues then you can believe. Sorry to say. Sounds like perhaps a heater core issue. You can probably get the system pressure tested to see if there is a leak.

hmmm, i think i can safely say its a heater core issue.

i noticed the passenger floor carpets are damp with an oily kinda substance. I left a blue towel under the mats and there were some green spots there after a day.

Seems like i get that coolant smell after i turn off the heat when i use for a while.

Question is, does this issue get progressively worse? Or is it ok to just leave this for now? I don't have the time or space to deal with removing a heater core, i don't even know if its worth it to fix it even if i knew someone who can do the work for me.
seems like a bitch of a deal just to get at the core

Does it get worse? Well it sure as hell doesn't get better lol

The longer you wait, the more damp your carpet gets, the more moisture gets trapped in the cabin, the more chances a pinhole leak turns into something bigger.

I'd do it sooner than later.

At the very least, you'll have to remove the globe box and a bracket. More than likely, you'll have to remove the center console as well.

If you let it go too long, you'll eventually lose heat inside the cabin and your car will be undrivable due fog/condensation on the windows.

Also, by losing coolant you are letting air into the cooling system. This will lead fluctuating idle and eventually an overheated engine and blown headgasket.

Ah shit.
At least it's not raining this weekend lol.

Besides the all day labor...how much is the heater core typically? 95 teg.

$40.50 + coolant.

Search for it on RockAuto and double/triple the price for what a shop charges here.

$38USD avg on RockAuto + shipping. Some things are best bought locally, with a decent discount.

Wow. My E36 was a $1200 job.... It was also 8 hours labour.

Keep in mind 8 hours is over a grand in labour costs.

Hey guys,

So it's time for me to bleed my brake/clutch fluid. I already know the bleeding sequence, but do you need need to pump the clutch pedal at all during the process? My brake/clutch fluid is the same reservoir.

Thanks!!!

If you don't bleed the clutch fluid at the slave cylinder then you won't be flushing any of the clutch fluid out

You don't pump the clutch while doing the brake bleed, but you will once you open up the slave cylinder.

I was driving yesterday and there was some clanking sound coming from the front driver side suspension. The sound is heard when the car goes over bumps. My 05 Lancer is lowered on coilovers.

I made sure that the strut bar is on tight. The coilovers are on tight as well. In a previous inspection, the shop noticed that the tie rods should be replaced soon.

Anyone know what the problem is?

Full coilovers or just sleeves? Could be upper strut bearings or control arm bushings