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Anyone shooting with a mirrorless system? I'm thinking about upgrading from my D80 to something more pocketable.
One thing I don't like is that many of them don't have an actual viewfinder. Is there currently a camera out there with a good all around bang for your buck + VF?
I built a budget OM-D kit a month ago to compliment my DSLR kit. Doesn't have OVF but the EVF does everything you need. I find myself using the LCD/EVF 50/50 and it focuses like no other.
Spend $500 for a decent one. Some in that price range have motors. You want the kind with bearings, not just sliding along a rail. I really like the design of the Edelkrone slider.
OR...find a DIY instruction and build one. Don't buy the cheap ones. They're not smooth enough.
Spend $500 for a decent one. Some in that price range have motors. You want the kind with bearings, not just sliding along a rail. I really like the design of the Edelkrone slider.
OR...find a DIY instruction and build one. Don't buy the cheap ones. They're not smooth enough.
my old DIY slider that I'm thinking of selling
I need a Nikon D3200
Does anyone have a Nikon D3200 that I may borrow for Sunday? I just need the body and the battery, nothing else.
__________________ When life hands you lemons, you clone those lemons and make.. super lemons! - Principal Cinnamon J. Scudworth
EDIT: Noticing that I'm getting a lot not-so-sharp photos lately after I picked up a Nikon 35.8
Compared to my older kit lens, it doesn't have VR because apparently you don't need it at that focal length. Now, if I'm shooting with a lower shutter speed, would VR make a difference?
Just curious.
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Last edited by Razor Ramon HG; 03-22-2013 at 08:43 AM.
EDIT: Noticing that I'm getting a lot not-so-sharp photos lately after I picked up a Nikon 35.8
Compared to my older kit lens, it doesn't have VR because apparently you don't need it at that focal length. Now, if I'm shooting with a lower shutter speed, would VR make a difference?
Just curious.
What shutter speed are you shooting at? the only way to tell if it's your shaky hands that are blurring the photo is to put it on a tripod and shoot the same photo.
as a general rule, you usually want to shoot at 1/focal length or faster - ie, 1/35 or faster for your lens. (that's without VR/OS).
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I'd like to get as much as I can for the lens but it might be hard to sell. I have a four filters for it as well that I would have to sell too. I think those would sell quicker then the lens.
I'm not 100% sure on the VR thing, all I can say is that I use a tripod no matter what settings or lens I use.
__________________ When life hands you lemons, you clone those lemons and make.. super lemons! - Principal Cinnamon J. Scudworth
^^
I'd like to get as much as I can for the lens but it might be hard to sell. I have a four filters for it as well that I would have to sell too. I think those would sell quicker then the lens.
I'm not 100% sure on the VR thing, all I can say is that I use a tripod no matter what settings or lens I use.
What shutter speed are you shooting at? the only way to tell if it's your shaky hands that are blurring the photo is to put it on a tripod and shoot the same photo.
as a general rule, you usually want to shoot at 1/focal length or faster - ie, 1/35 or faster for your lens. (that's without VR/OS).
Yeah.. I always check my photos on the LCD screen to see if it's shaky as well. Just hated having to throw out this particular shot that I thought was tack sharp.
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Owner of Vansterdam's 420th thanks. OH YEAUHHH.
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Originally Posted by 89blkcivic
Did I tell you guys black is my favourite colour? My Ridgeline is black. My Honda Fit is black. Wish my dick was black........ LOL.
LCD alone doesn't tell you much because it is so small, it can often give the illusion that things are clear and sharp when they really aren't . You have to use it to go to 100% zoom to see. Some of the nicer DSLRs have a one button push that autozooms into the image 100% that you can set in the settings..
UV filters do nothing but protect your lens. The polarizer would give you more color saturation and contrast but nothing u cant fix in post editing anyway. Although it does a great job at eliminating reflections or shimmering light. Works great on water or anything with lots of highlights in general.
Polarizer can be useful for adjusting the contrast of the sky to other objects (mountains, clouds, etc.) in daytime shots, as well as for bringing out more contrast/definition in clouds, snow, etc. These things CAN be done in post, but it's a lot of work. Eliminating reflections, on the other hand, is virtually impossible in post. A polarizer is the one filter than can't be duplicated in Photoshop.
Keep in mind that you'll lose ~2 stops of light with a polarizer, so in lower light you'll need to adjust your shooting appropriately. It doesn't affect how the camera meters, but for example, if you're shooting at 1/100, with the same ISO and aperture, a polarizer will mean you have to shoot at 1/25s... so if you're on the verge of motion blur there, you'll have to decide on another way to compensate.
Also, make sure you get a circular polarizer (CPL) rather than linear - linear polarization will adversely affect auto exposure and AF.
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Does anyone know where I can purchase a Glidecam HD4000 locally before I order one from bhphotovideo?
I've already asked all camera equipment rental places and they won't sell.
Thanks in advance
Mike
__________________ When life hands you lemons, you clone those lemons and make.. super lemons! - Principal Cinnamon J. Scudworth
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
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