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REVscene MotorsportsRS Motorsports by The Speed Syndicate RS Race Team
Pitt Meadows & Mission Raceway. Organize Race Pre-meets, post Racing related event Pics and discussion. In collaboration with The Speed Syndicate, Official race events presenter. [Solicitation of Professional Racing Events Allowed]
I haven't raced in 5+ years, only with vcmc at Pitt meadows.
When's the next event?
Looks like open lapping is only on weekdays
July 15 with Kalson (Axon x RS). I'm not sure about speedy goat. There's also VIMC private days which are same cost if not cheaper which are both weekdays and weekends but no traffic.
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|| 18 FK8 | R-18692 | Rallye Red | 6 MT ||
|| SOLD 97 E36 M3 Sedan | Arctic Silver | 5MT ||
|| RIP 02 E46 330ci | Schwartz Black II | 5MT | M-Tech II | Black Cube | Shadowline | Stoff Laser/Anthrazit ||
|| RIP 02 E46 M3 | Carbon Black | 6MT ||
Cheap VCMC "night" time track day - $200! Starts at 4PM Wed Aug 2nd. Cheapest track day around.
If you want Auto-X there's the VCMC Cup series as well as Speedy Goat x BCIT, next Speedy Goat event is July 23rd. VCMC is trialing a new location at Adesa Auctions in Richmond instead of the Mission Kart Track on June 24/25. You're welcome to swing by and watch! If you find me there I'll give you a ride along in the fat wagon.
How much drive time/total laps do I expect to get for 400$?
Where's the link for jul15 event? Can't seem to find it, same question goes here for time / total laps vs cost
For the TT, about 15 minute sessions x6 plus some warmup laps, and then at the end of the day they hold open lapping where you can keep going. I figure your car can handle the track duties better than mine, so you might enjoy the open lapping more. Make sure to change the brake fluid to a higher temp fluid, brakes going on the 3rd lap made my pants a little browner.
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Originally Posted by PeanutButter
Damn, not only is yours veiny AF, yours is thick AF too. Yours is twice as thick as mine.. That looks like a 2" or maybe even 3"?
Note taken for high temp fluid, I think my car came with all sorts of high temp package as per the dealer document, il take a look what it has
Also, did your car get a brake fluid flush after it was sitting for however many years it was? That's probably the more pressing thing if it wasn't done already.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeanutButter
Damn, not only is yours veiny AF, yours is thick AF too. Yours is twice as thick as mine.. That looks like a 2" or maybe even 3"?
Also, did your car get a brake fluid flush after it was sitting for however many years it was? That's probably the more pressing thing if it wasn't done already.
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Originally Posted by SSM_DC5
Castrol srf. You might want all fresh fluids if you don't know when it was done last.
Unknown, the car was "serviced" by the dealership since 2015. The tires are 10 years old, I know that for sure...... Would be safe to say fluids are original since it only has 10,000kms......
Gonna be an expensive summer
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Originally Posted by Mr.Money i hate people who sound like they smoke meth then pretend like they matter.
Originally Posted by ilovebacon
Does anyone have a pair of 25 pounds one-inch hole for sale at a reasonable price?
I don't usually do out of town events, but VIMC figure on $1000 for a weekend, what with ferries, food, hotel, etc. it's best if you can double dip (go Sat/Sun) for best maximization.
I tend to do Auto-X which is like $70 an event. Maybe 6-8 of those a year. Plus ice racing at $120 a pop, 2 times a year.
Tires last at least 2 seasons, for me, with 1-2 track days a season plus auto-x and normal driving. Pads, if you don't do a BIC_BAWS, lasts at least a couple of seasons, again depending on how many track days you do/how aggressive the pads are. One flush a season for brakes. I don't drive the car hard enough to break shit, it's my daily, my goal is not to chase PBs.
I don't really want to total it up lol.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeanutButter
Damn, not only is yours veiny AF, yours is thick AF too. Yours is twice as thick as mine.. That looks like a 2" or maybe even 3"?
I don't usually do out of town events, but VIMC figure on $1000 for a weekend, what with ferries, food, hotel, etc. it's best if you can double dip (go Sat/Sun) for best maximization.
I tend to do Auto-X which is like $70 an event. Maybe 6-8 of those a year. Plus ice racing at $120 a pop, 2 times a year.
Tires last at least 2 seasons, for me, with 1-2 track days a season plus auto-x and normal driving. Pads, if you don't do a BIC_BAWS, lasts at least a couple of seasons, again depending on how many track days you do/how aggressive the pads are. One flush a season for brakes. I don't drive the car hard enough to break shit, it's my daily, my goal is not to chase PBs.
Curious why you are doing annual brake flushes? Does tracking laps cause that much wear on the mineral oils or such?
I mean all the cars I have had, I don't think I have EVER flushed the brakes, including auto-x days. Only time was when my prelude had some odd brake issues, and a truck that had sponge brakes = needed a flush.
Curious why you are doing annual brake flushes? Does tracking laps cause that much wear on the mineral oils or such?
I mean all the cars I have had, I don't think I have EVER flushed the brakes, including auto-x days. Only time was when my prelude had some odd brake issues, and a truck that had sponge brakes = needed a flush.
If you're doing track work, especially wiih RBF/SRF/high temp fluid, you want annual flushes. The high temp brake fluid absorbs moisture faster, and thus can degrade faster than the regular brake fluid. Also, car brake fluid isn't mineral oil - that's Shimano bicycle brakes my dude lol. Most manufacturers advise to do brake flush every 2-3 years, as it's time based and not really KM-based.
EDIT: DOT vehicle brake fluids are glycol-based, and hygroscopic (absorbs moisture). When that happens, it's easier to "boil" your brakes and lose braking power as air/gases form in the line to cause bubbles.
Besides, the brakes are the most important part of the car on track, and a $120 flush (or less, DIY) is cheap insurance to make sure that your stopping power is unaffected.
Mission kills brakes, and the brake fluid is usually the first thing that gives up. Heat from the braking transfers through the pads, to the (brake) pistons, and into the brake fluid. Once your brake fluid heats up, it absorbs moisture rather quickly and becomes compressible.
Your brake pedal would then get soft to start, spongey a little later, and then it'll outright fail as it doesn't give you any pedal pressure at all. No pedal pressue = no brakes.
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