How difficult is it to remove the rack? It might be worth fixing it before it becomes worse.

Removing the rack isn't too big of a deal, although it is up there in terms of time consumption, it's the cost of the rack that troubles me. Internal seal leaks cannot be repaired, need to have the whole rack replaced. It's leaking from the internal boot.

Exactly you need to replace the rack.
if you feel adventurous and lucky, try to refurbish it yourself. but so far i have never seen a successful refurbished rack job. the problem is the rack piston ( the rod like part that pushes the tie rods left-right) gets worn with time, even with new seals it will still leak either instantly or in a very short time. unless you have the rack sent to a machine shop to fill it to it's original diameter, but $$$$$$, might as well shop for a used rack and take the time to choose one that looks good.

You say the rack is only leaking a small amount but the fluid is dirty. If you can live with the leak (as you already have been), change the fluid anyways. Last thing you want is to replace a rack and a pump.

It's been visibly leaking for the last 2 years, but I only have to top it up about once every 5-6 months, that's how little is being leaked out. :lawl:

If so I know it's not the plugs under the dash because it was happening before I was working in there. Odd because I had no issues yesterday and today, I'll keep observing for now.

no splicing, just grounding some terminals as usual

dont have a multimeter on me but I used one of those cigarette port tester that gives a range and the battery is strong, and alternator is good at 12.5-13.5V

Im looking for a garage space or outdoor private area to drop my transmission if someone is wiling to rent for a few days.

with the key in ignition and key switched to on, wiggle and jigle the key, try putting tension turning back against the detent, without turning it back to off position. See if the dash lights flicker

'93 Civic (250k) w/ PS

My inner tie rod ends and bellows need replacing. I just bought inners, outers and the bellows for $150 or so.

Before I crack open the packaging and install them, do you think it's better to spend the extra time and money to just replace the rack (inners pre-assembled) and get some new outers and mount bushings? With new fluid, it'd probably end up costing about $300.

I just figure it would cost less in the long run, unless these steering racks rarely fail/leak, in which case, I'll just replace what's worn.

u will need the inner tie rod tool as well unless you have it so it could cost about the same once you factor in the tool required

I decided to just replace what's necessary. When I eventually do the engine swap, I'll just upgrade to an Integra rack (better ratio).

on the subject of an integra...i'm noticing an odd rattling sound on my front passenger side
kinda sounds like a spray paint can rattling but not that loud

only happens at really low speeds, when i first accelerate from a full stop and when i slow down to the point ofstopping. Does not matter if i'm in gear or in neutral, once i'm at that slow speed and rolling i will hear the rattling until i've stopped or reached a faster speed.

puzzling me...nothing else is off with the car. No vibrations in steering or when braking, no rattling/creaking when turning, i don't hear it when i go over speed bumps at a decent speed but if i hit at a very low speed then i will hear some rattling

iirc the passenger side inner tie rod boot ripped last year but i haven't bothered to replace it. (that seems to be where the rattling is originating from but i can't exactly isolate the specific area)
could that be it? sway bar link bushings? any ideas?

exhaust heat shield

Klobber, I just used a 32 and 22mm and broke the tabs of the lock washer when I took it apart. Used a new one on installation. Hardest part was installing the bellow on the driver's side. Shit was way too small for the rack housing and there's not much room to get your hands in there. Alignment next.

604boi, suspension/steering will clunk, thud and squeak but not rattle like that. Well it can but if something's rattling that bad you'll know it's driving like a POS. Probably a cat shield, like Klobber said. Bring it by if you want me to check it out. But if it is a cat shield, I'm probably just going to remove it lol.

'07 Accord

I had no DRL's for about 6 months now, with the DRL-warning light on my dash all the time. In the beginning it was intermittent, and about 3 months ago was "permanent."

I assumed it was the relay/module, as it's known to go (bad soldering, apparently).

Yesterday, I went through a car wash, and my DRLs have magically started working. I went through the same wash multiple times before while the DRLs were still not working.

What could be the explanation? I checked the bulbs/connectors 6 months ago, and they're fine. Nothing special about them, apart from the fact that the high beams (DRLs) are also connected to the bi-xenon solenoid for my retrofits.

need to remove the screw pointed in red arrow, thing is the philips head is stripped and space is really tight, any idea how to remove it?

the opening is only size of a double din slot, and only can reach the screw with stubby screw driver

http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6efdb8db.jpg

Double-nut the threaded end, crack it loose, take the nuts off, remove with screwdriver or by hand.

Alternatively cut a notch into either and and use a flat driver to get it moving.

thanks for all the advise, I've tried all the method mentioned, unfortunately space is very tight and the screw is a small size ( m5 ) , end up have to hacksaw the metal part out.

figured it out i think...there was a loose bolt on the SRI, didn't look like it but there was some play so i retightened it and that spray can rattling sound is gone for the most part.

now its just the good ol' old car noise minus that annoying rattling

hey guys my little bro's ducati been sitting in storage for a year while he was out of the country, and he didn't store it properly with a battery tender nor emptying out gas tank completely, stupid move I told him...
But whats done is done and now we gotta clean out the cruddy gas residue that's settled on the bottom of the gas tank.

With this being a motorcycle which I know nothing about, I am completely clueless where to even begin, new battery is already taken care of, but what should I do with the gas tank problem ??

how long has it been parked, was it stored indoors or outside, and was is the level of fuel in the tank right now.

Inside, parking garage of his condo tower, last time he rode it was last summer, he then left country and just came back, trying to get it in running shape.

gas was on half tank when he left it so that's what it's at now, so I mean I know what the issue is I just don't know anything about motorcycles if and what is done differently in their case, if it was a car I'd know what to do

get a flashlight, plug your nose and open the gas cap and tell us what you see down there... i'm also assuming you haven't tried to start it as is?

model ducati model is it? does it have a petcock valve under the tank?

I'm not familiar with bikes, but it's got the 999 sticker on the side, and no we're planning on hooking up the new battery later today, but I was thinking with half a tank in there and if we look inside gas tank with flashlight don't see much residue or whatever caked up on bottom, I was thinking a good quality fuel cleaner, maybe toss in an extra bottle and just ride around until it's empty...

was thinking that would do the trick wouldnt it ??