Not yet, though I plan on stopping at the dealership on Saturday to see whether they're able to retrieve it. If you're able to get it that would be greatly appreciated. :)

Need the HU serial #.

With HU off, hold down 1 and 6, while still pressing down, hit HU power button and serial # should appear (8 digits total (2 sets of 4 numbers)).

edit - found a vid:

PM'd you Ice.

54155

Worked! Thank you. :toot:

NP. HTH

So I get bad squeal after my friend helped me put in new pads on a 06 rsx base, then months later it's developed vibration when braking at high speeds. It goes away after a wash but the issue comes back after a week. I took pics but he said everything looks fine. Something somewhere probably isn't balanced or my wheels were overtorqued at one point.

1. I dont know to change just rotor and pads or if I need to also get new mounting hardware (shims, retaining clip, caliper pins etc).

2. Will take recommendations for new rotors. I was set on Brembo blanks (it's a daily driver but I don't like cheaping out on tires/brakes) but according to Honda-tech they're also made in China these days...I'm guessing generics like Centric/Power Stop is safe? The difference in the full set is $140 for better QC (?) but still Made in China.

edit: brakes weren't bled last time, and so I need to flush the fluid/and bleed.

bump

So its a pulsation while breaking is typically a rotor issue, but if you are saying it goes away with washing it may be a seized slider.

The issue you described would be caused by not bleeding it ( itd feel spongy all the time).

Try greasing the sliders maybe

When you put in new pads my guess is the rotors were not machined when replacing them? Most likely what happened is you put in the new pads and the pads have now mated to the surface of the warped rotors (this can happen over time from overheating, improper torque, or spraying water onto the rotors and just general wear). It's always recommended to replace or cut the rotors depending on the thickness of them.

I would rec you replace the rotors and pads, re lubricate the slider pins,and just clean up the mounting hardware using a wire brush + brake clean. If money is tight you can sand down the pads with the new rotors, just make sure you etch them pretty good.

Dont hang yourself up too much about made in China, as long as it is a reputable company these products go through rigorous testing to be sold in NA.. we are talking about brakes after all. Just don't end up with a brand nobody has ever heard of :lol

Goodluck

As a add on to sanding the pads wear a mask and try to make as little dust as possible since asbestos

I can't recall exactly because it's been while since I washed it, but it only temporarily helped with the squeal/sqeaks, the pulsation/vibration was still present.

So the power stop rotors from rockauto is safe? :concentrate: Or pay double for Brembo...both MiC :lol

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...2387/overview/

Yeah if you have a pulsations while breaking yes you will need to machine or replace (then break in) new rotors

If you want to be extra thorough, wire brush the rotor mounting surface of the hub and the inside of the wheel that contacts the rotor.

I don't like cheaping out on brakes either, but unless you're tracking the car I wouldn't worry about the rotor brand too much as the main difference will be heat dispersion, I've yet to hear of cheap rotors being the failure point so I'd save a bit on them and put the savings towards some really good pads and fluid.

From my experience, many aftermarket pads are noisy. Often the pad material is too hard, causing the rotor surface to glaze and wearing the rotor itself as much as the pad. (creating a ridge on the edge of the rotor, and the braking surface of the rotor to be polished, chrome like)
Look closely at the ends of the backing plate of the aftermarket pads, ususally i find the edges aren't totally square when compared to oem pad.
Like many others here, I wouldn't get too concerned of the rotor brand, but i'd suggest oem pads

ok so finally gonna get around to doing my brakes...only going to do the rears first

I've read from tirerack and many sites that I need a dial indicator even if it's a new rotor so I can measure the runout of the hub and the rotor once installed. I've no problem just putting in the new rotor but I'm concerned the pulsation will return after few thousand km's and will be needing new rotors and hubs shortly after. I do have a micrometer to measure parallelism.

nm gonna use this...hope my hub is still in decent shape
https://www.kmstools.com/magnum-0-1-...-indicator-468

If your getting a pulsation, its likely the front brakes. The rear rotors would have to be extremely out in order to feel any bit of pulsation, and you would be able to see the runout without a dial indiactor. The front wouldnt need to be too far out to feel any pulsation.
I wouldn't bother measuring with a dial indicator. Of all the years i worked at Honda, i measured with a dial indicator barely a few times.

Anyone know how I can get this stripped screw out? Tried using an extraction bit and it fucking snapped :(

I still need to be able to fit the same sized bolt back in.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4...XzA&authuser=0

Your pic isn't public.

Whoops sorry.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4F...ew?usp=sharing

EDIT: Got it out..Thanks anyone who tried to help :)

I washed a pile of mud off the Jeep, and now it has a vibration that starts at 60 and gets worse by 80. It use to have a weird vibration between 80-90 but that went away when I got new tires. I'm thinking maybe I knocked off a wheel weight?

Yup, or you've got a shit tons of mud somewhere hiding on a rotating assembly of some sort.

So I was getting light vibration in the steering wheel when braking from high speeds. I might've also been due for an alignment because car didn't drive all that straight.
Few days ago I did my front discs/pads (raybestos professional grade discs and akebono pro-acts) and now I'm getting worse vibration at 60kph+ and when I'm going down a hill. Car also pulls to the right (worse alignment than before) when I let go of the wheel.

Pretty sure my rotors are seated correctly. First chance I get is to check lug torque but they're not loose. How important is it to torque all the caliper bolts to specs? I did the exact same job in the rears and ran them problem free for a week. Don't know if this makes a diff but the brake fluid was a bit over max line in the reservoir after I pushed the caliper pistons back. Tire pressure is good just a week ago. What else could be a culprit? Wheel weights? I was told to put back my old rotors to see if the new problem goes away.

Now the vibration moves around, sometimes it goes way while cornering at speed, this morning it started at 80, stopped at 90, started at 100, stopped at 100...what the ever loving fuck.