The sound is definitely coming from the top mounts, or more specifically the spring seat. Might bring it to a second shop to get a second opinion.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...be3f51a4ba.jpg

whoa. Parallel jaws, that eliminates the problem with using pliers and crescent wrenches. Any idea where to get them in Van?

-Dave

kms tools website shows them but you pay the kms price which is almost double what I paid online

OK, so after the 5th time going to the shop that installed my coils to get rid of rear squeaking, there is still squeaking, and I'm like :fuuuuu:

Chronological order of events:

1. coils installed along with all new OEM parts everywhere, not a single old part was used
2. after driving for the first time in the rain about 2 weeks after installing the coils, squeaking started in the rear after the car dried out
3. went back to the shop got them to regrease everything
4. squeaking was there as soon as I left the shop parking lot
5. went back in for regreasing
6. squeaking happened again as soon as I left the shop parking lot
7. went back in for regreasing and they reassembled the rear strut assemblies
8. zero squeaking noises anywhere until it rained again and the car dried out
9. went back two days ago to get them to regrease everything again
10. squeaking noise was there as soon as I left the parking lot

:facepalm:

My conclusion is that, given that the only time when the noises subsided completely was when the rear strut assemblies were disassembled and reassembled, something inside the strut assemblies is making the noises, and every time it rains it just washes whatever grease was applied to wherever causing the very loud and noticeable squeaking noises.

I am out of ideas and about to get a second opinion from another shop cause this is insane.

I told u like 15 times, poly bushing will always squeak. Change back to rubber if u don't like it LOL

The only things in my rear suspension that are poly are my LCAs, which aren't making any of the noises I'm referring to. The sound is coming from the strut assemblies and I know it is because the only time the shop disassembled and reassembled my rear strut assemblies is when all the squeaking noises subsided until it rained again. Got nothing to do with the LCAs. Every single time the shop regreased everything it didn't help with the squeaking at all, only when the coils were taken out, disassembled/reassembled and put back in.

Were all the bushing fasteners tightened when the car was at ride height or drooping while on the lift?

Yes they were.

Here are the exact noises my car is making, from the rear passenger side coil.


This was a few hours after everything was regreased already.
https://vid.me/tQJw
https://vid.me/DB37

Oh fun! That would drive me nuts. Not much I can do to diagnose/help without seeing it in person. It sounds like coil spring binding, but without seeing the assembly and having it move, so hard to determine what it is.

If you fancy a drive up to Squamish sometime this week, I'd be happy to see if I can't help solve it. I'm thinking we put it up on some axle stands and then manipulate the suspension with a jack while I can see/feel what's going on.

-Dave

do you know what kind of grease is being used? maybe try another brand?

Following up on this, turns out there was a bunch of mud caked on the inside of the wheels, it was smooth and pale enough that it didn't stand out until I started busting it off.

Vehicle: 2007 VW GTI (MKV)
Issue: All fuses are hot (active 12V - not hot as in temperature) even when the key is out of the ignition.

Background: Before using an add-a-circuit for my dash cam (via power magic), I verified fuses that were always hot and fuses hot only when the ignition is on etc. After adding the dash camera into the fuse panel, the SRS light is now on and all fuses are hot. This isn't a big concern since it's not draining the battery. However, I want to tap into the fuse boxe for devices in the future and there is now a concern that there is no switched circuit available.

Looking to replace my passenger side axle the next time I have a couple days off. What is the best way to break axle nut loose? Huge breaker bar or rent an impact gun? Where can I rent impact guns for a decent price? Do they also rent out socket for the axle nut?

Take the center cap off the wheel, get a huge breaker bar on it before you lift the car up

^ that's the better method, I usually jam a long bar between the wheel studs and against the ground, but I don't like doing it if the nut is really stuck.

Finally got a video of this stupid thing. This is driving me absolutely INSANE. Can you believe that the rear suspension creaks even when I'm opening and shutting my door? It's like even the most minute of movements will cause the rear suspension to creak.

I emailed tein, they said it shouldn't be a noise that the strut assemblies should make internally and it sounds more like some other suspension component that's making the noise. HOWEVER, they said the only thing it could be that's internal making the noise is the rubber spring seats. Which leads me to the conclusion that it probably is that, because the shop I get my work done greased up all the other suspension components 4 separate times without getting rid of the noise, but the ONE time they took apart the coil, reassembled them and stuck it back on was the ONLY time the noise was gone entirely. Until it rained again.

:fuuuuu: it's also pretty fucking embarrassing because the noise is even louder from the outside and all people hear is just a squeaky creaky lunchbox on wheels, driving me nuts because I replaced every single possible suspension part I could replace with OEM Honda parts and brand new tein suspension.

I've never had any real trouble taking axle nuts off with just a breaker bar.

You check if the door hinges are lubed up and the bolts to the black door stopper rod is tight?

My doors are fine :suspicious:

Booked in with G5 in about 1.5 weeks to get this shit looked at after exams.

On a separate note, generally how easy is it to wire up an aftermarket tach? Specifically the STRi DSD SLM-II?

It's 3 wires so...pretty easy.

Ok so my car is at the shop and the drivetrain is out, I'm getting a pile of new parts put on (gaskets, all hoses, all three pumps, timing belt, clutch, cams, etc etc etc) and they're asking if I want to do the headgasket and studs while it's this far apart. I'm thinking of skipping it, because I don't like cracking open a perfectly good motor, and if I do I'd want to do rings and bearings as well. Car currently has 180k and perfect compression, the turbo is staying stock and the boost will only be upped from 11-12 psi to 16 psi on occasions.

Thoughts?

it really depends.. how much money are you saving if they do this while its all apart? when you get into removing the head, rings, and bearings, the motor will be pulled out of the vehicle while its not necessary for the work you already have lined up (im not familiar with the celica motor so maybe im wrong).

if your compression numbers are good, I wouldn't be concerned at this time

The motor has to come out for the power steering system leaks and clutch so it's already out and torn down to a block + head with the lower rotating assembly and valves. To do it now I'm looking at an extra ~$2-2.5k with new pistons or $1-1.5k without, if I do it later the car would be off the road for a while as I'd pull the motor myself (it's a big job).

does anyone know or have a tool that can clear airbag lights for the E46?

95 Integra

Recently started noticing this screeching, high-pitched grinding/whining sound on cold starts.
This happens when i pop it to first, and when i'm at that balance where my foot is still slightly on the clutch and i'm gassing to go ahead. Essentially, the sound happens when i'm gassing while still letting go of the clutch. Sounds pretty loud esp on inclines. This also happens on reverse. Doesn't seem to happen after the car warms up. Sounds like its coming from the tranny.
Any ideas?