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did you clean the hub when you put on the new rotors? |
it's definitely the front it shakes when I'm driving highway speeds or going down a hill. Be it accelerating/braking/neither. yes I used brake clean on the hub surface...used wirebrush as well on the right side. |
Got my wheels balanced at Fountain Tire, as I experienced a really bad shaking around 110 kph. The truck tracked straight and had no "abnormal" tire wear, so I figured an alignment would not be necessary. They used one of those Hunter "Road Force" balancers, which I am told from several different sources are the best in the business. After the balancing, the truck doesn't shake as bad but now the steering wheel shakes at roughly the same speed of 110. Going to about 140 and the shaking gets really bad. Not such a big deal as I never drive that fast, ever. The shaking is mostly gone except for on the steering wheel. I remove my hands from the wheel and the truck still tracks straight. What gives? I am going to get an alignment later this month after doing my tie roads and lower ball joints so hopefully this fixes it. All the tire tech told me was that my "wheels were really out of balance"... |
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I haven't had a chance to get it checked yet, I've been too busy with work. I'm thinking that weights missing off multiple wheels would explain why the vibration keeps occurring at different speeds |
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I'm pretty sure your brand new rotors aren't out of round. Also check wheel balance, in case. |
dont wanna start a new thread for this but is it shady for a body shop to take a deposit prior to performing any work? I brought my car to a body shop to get both rocker panels fixed for $700. |
^ Seems a bit weird for something so minor... |
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1) measure run out on the rotor (my guess is you don't have a dial indicator , not many people do). 2) rotate the tires front to rear, and after side to side. If this affects your pulling or steering wheel shake, you most likely have a balance /tire issue. 3)break in the pads again. How was the car driven since you put the pads and rotors in? I rec light driving for at least 100k until you really step on it. You can attempt sanding down the pads and cross hatching the rotors using sandpaper. Did you clean the rotors surface before installation? There is a coating of oil put on the rotors to prevent it from rusting on the shelf. You can do step two and three together. Make sure you lubricate the slider pins with slider pin grease (lordco has sylglyde) |
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yes rotors were cleaned before mounting. yes slide pins were greased. I'm aware of akebono's recommended 400-500mi bedding process and I usually throttle/brake like a grandma anyways. I think I ensured the rotor screws went into the correct holes but one wasn't completely flush because of the rust on the threads. Didn't think much of it because these screws are apparently optional. wheels are directional and i just rotated them 6 mo ago. How do I check the wheel balance? As long as the weights look the same on both wheels? when installing pads do you have it resting against the rotor surface or have a bit of gap and have it sit towards the outer edge of the caliper bracket? I didn't think it'd make a difference because once you brake the pads will just rest on the rotors? |
Question - can mass air flow sensor cleaner be used in place of brake cleaner? iirc MAF cleaner doesnt leave any residue so i would assume safe? |
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You can move the tires front to rear to see if it makes any difference since the front tires will cause a much more harsher vibration than the rear. the piston will take up pad slack so it doesnt really matter. that screw just helps you with installation. you mention that you werent able to thread the screw all the way in -- did you leave it out? i would imagine if that screw is not in all the way it can cause a wobble if its in direct contact with the rim mounting surface (small chance.. but hey just maybe?). |
Strange sound coming from front driver's wheel area. It sounds like a "shik-shik-shik", frequency increases with speed, drowned out/gone at 40+km/h. New tires were installed last Monday, didn't notice this sound. On Saturday, I took said wheel off to install CAI, reinstalled, torqued then and again this morning. Car does not pull, nor is there smell, so I'm assuming brake isn't dragging. Wheel weights and lugnuts checked. I can lift the car again to check for play in wheel bearing, and to check if rotor shield was bent or something, but does somebody have any other ideas? I saw "defective tire" thrown around, but (I think) it was fine for the first week or so. |
See if the backing plate is grazing the rotor? If so, push it away a bit. |
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the alignment screws were slightly bent took them out..problem solved total :derp: moment |
hello. might be a long shot but im looking for garage space for my friend who is a mobile mechanic. he is doing a timing belt job on my car. hes got everything in his van from tools to air compressor and i got all the parts needed for the job. we just need a space and a roof over it. it will be raining for the rest of the week. :( i live in a apartment building where they dont allow renters to work on our own cars. ps. we are not crazy. dont worry. ill bring you beer. corona? another ps. we are in burnaby by patterson station. anywere in the 10km radius is fine |
not sure if this is the right place to ask, but what do you guys use for fuel system cleaner? i've used my last bottle of chevron techron and i can't find it anymore at the chevron gas stations locally. or something that has PEA detergent in it? my mechanic suggested gumout regane but i haven't been able to find that either, aside from the inferior one they sell at walmart? |
Seafoam ^ |
They sell Gumout Regane at Canadian Tire and surprisingly at some Safeway locations, at least the one at King Ed and Oak. I use Redline S1 |
302 + T5 |
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is this stuff going to smoke up the entire neighborhood? it's a little early in the year for me to blame the mosquitoes :o |
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