If the bolt/nut is stripped where they meet at least you won't have to cut too close to the car to get it to pop.

Should be able to cut the threads off, then cut the nut in half without touching the car, since there's a washer there.

You must always use the correct bolt not just because of grade and strength but usually the bolts have a taper or shoulder on them that centers the bushing collar with zero play. A regular bolt will always allow for a slight amount of play

Try using this nut splitter. It works pretty well. I've used it on rusty exhaust nuts.

Mastercraft Nut Splitter | Canadian Tire

Finally got the new cv axle in. Thanks for all the help guys :)

So the new cv axle I put in (cardone brand) still have some left right play. Meaning when the tranmission side is in. I pull on the axle towards the wheel side there is some movement. How much movement is normal?

Were you pulling on it so you could push back and get the inner splines to lock into place?

Yeah, don't do that. lol

It's not a slide hammer and you can separate the joint internally.

Yea exactly why I was pulling on it lol but I only did that a few times and it wasn't hard pulls. I got it in there made sure the than tap gently on the axle nut side to get it to seat and it eventually did. So it shouldn't have any play? How much force does it take the seperate it internally?

That's not play. The drive axle is designed to have a variable length (plunge joint) but if you extend it past it's limit, it can separate.

Took my car to another more experienced shop to get the insanely loud rear suspension creaking diagnosed. The culprit was not the poly bushings in the rear LCAs, but rather the spring rubbing on the OEM metal dust boot (specified by TEIN to be used for the rear coil assemblies). The shop simply applied as much lithium grease as they could on the dust boot and lo and behold all creaking and squeaking is gone, though, it is more of a temporary fix than a permanent. I have already emailed TEIN to see if this is a known issue because as far as I'm aware there are no aftermarket dust boots available for the Element, if that would even make a difference? Could the metal dust boots be bent or something so that the spring is rubbing on it?

^ maybe try to find a rubber dust boot from another vehicle to use instead?

#11?

http://www.autopartslib.com/wp-conte...rber-Parts.png

I'm confused as to what your talking about too? Cut up a bike tube and glue it to the spring perch?

I got a 05 CRV with only 90k on it. Getting horrible gas mileage (~220 on a tank). Previous mechanic that looked at it said there was a failed coil. I scanned the codes, none active or previously active.(maybe he cleared them). Well i checked the resistances in all the coils and their all exactly the same, which ruled out that part. I was thinking about going ahead and replacing air filter, pulling out the coils and spark plugs and inspecting them, and maybe throw some injector cleaner in the fuel tank. See whether it helps or not. Any other suggestions?

Dumb question but 220 km or miles? I recall someone posting something similar earlier who confused mpg with l/100km and had a CRV

Yes, the spring #1 is rubbing on the metal dust boot #11. According to the tech there's visible signs of rubbing on the dust boot as well from the spring. I've driven through two days of rain so far without any squeaking, so I'm hoping this other shop got it right!

I'd consider cutting the metal sleeve off and replacing it with a plastic/rubber bellow.

What would cause a high-pitched squeal sound coming from the wheel area of a car during low speeds only? (5-10 km/h then goes away)

It happens in or out of gear, and regardless of whether I'm on the brakes or not.

I've driven a car with a worn wheel bearing before and this is not what this sounds like. Imagine the sound of a car with brake pads that are worn down to the metal. And yes I checked my pad wear, I have about 0.5cm of pad left.

Have you checked if the backing plate is grazing the rotor?

worked on a car the other day with a sound diag,
the shims on the top and bottom of the caliper that holds onto the pads were touching the rotor.. :\

i am difficulty identifying an intermittent noise, possibly from the differential/driveshaft of my mustang.

i had an aluminum driveshaft installed, and recently when cold, i am hearing a squeaking noise whose frequency is proportional to the speed of the vehicle. it's definitely coming from the back, and started a few weeks after the driveshaft went in. when the car warms up, the sound disappears, so it has been difficult to diagnose by a mechanic because by the time i get to the shop it cannot be replicated.

using the brakes or coasting in neutral has no effect on the noise. it does not make the sound when going in reverse. nothing appears to be leaking.

help?

Is it a squeaking or could it be almost a low frequency vibration?

everyone that has heard it says it's a squeak or a chirping sound. i cannot hear it from inside the car unless i am in an enclosed space like a tunnel or underground parking facility.

Hey guys. I'm gathering parts and tool for my next project replacing the LMA in the b16a. I need 2 fine thread bolts for removing the rocker arms. One 2mm and one 12mm fine thread bolts. Any idea where I can find these?

Squeak or chirp will be poly or spherical bushings i would say.

Its in KMS