Accessory drive belts would be my guess. Check if they're loose or cracked.

thanks, i'll check that out as well...there's only the ps and alt belts that i know of and they've been replaced fairly recently.

could it be clutch related as well? clutch is about five years old now
i've never actually had a clutch go on any of my cars before cus i've never had em for this long lol.


edit: might be related to the slave cylinder, looked around and i'll try greasing it up when i get the chance, see if that makes a diff

Not just the belt, but also tensioners and pulleys.. especially if they haven't been replaced before.

So attempt to replace my cv axle today. Got stuck trying to remove the ball joint from the lower control arm. I try hitting it for 20 mins with a hammer, try the trick with inserting a 1/2 driver between the joint and the control arm than dropping it. Tried hitting the bolt up from the bottom of the ball joint bolt. Nothing work and I'm now stuck. Spray the area with wd 40 gonna have a go at it again tmml. Is there any special tool I can use to pop it lose? I know I could use one of those pitch fork thing but I heard 99% of the time it rips the boot on the ball joint. Trying to keep that intact. Any advice?

how big is the hammer your using, sometimes, u gotta use a bfh to get those ball joints loose

32 oz ball peen? Def not Thor worthy I will have a 5 lb and 10 lb sledgehammer tmml maybe that will work? I'm a little afraid I might mess something up smacking it like that. Already cheap the control arm abit cause I miss. How resilient is the control arm? Right now I'm trying to get it off without loosening any part of the control arm. Should I be loosening some bolts first?

Honda does produce a special tool that is designed to separate ball joints/tie rods but it is absurdly expensive. Here's a link, if you're interested: https://www.kseriesparts.com/cr/HON-07MAC-SL00202.html

Princess Auto makes a cheaper version but they may not have them at the local stores. Here's another link:
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...or/A-p8262149e

And, here's a picture of one being used.
http://s4.postimg.org/tsnzl4ve5/med_...1090744987.jpg

I would buy a 3lb dead blow hammer from Princess Auto. I find it works better than a steel hammer for that type of work.

I once resorted to putting a jack stand under the stud and slowly lowering the car down... once the suspension compresses the weight of the car should force it out.. sketchy, though..

Depending on what I'm working on, I use a fork or this:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...BL._SX300_.jpg

You can get a cheaper one from PA when they're on sale. I think they're like $20.

Thanks guys. Will drop by PA tommorrow hopefully they have some in stock. Reading the review for the PA version of the seperator it seems like I have to grind some metal bits to not rip the boot on a Honda? Anybody actually have the PA one and have used it can confirm?

Any one locally can rent me one of these seperator in case I can't find one tmml?

Surprised the driver trick didn't work, it's worked better for me than any sledge

^ well I couldn't push the control arm far up enough to wedge the entire driver in. I push it up so far that te car was beginning to lift up I didn't want to force it anymore. Try it with the smaller size driver and with it half in. No luck

I've never had any luck removing ball joints with a hammer, a dead blow might work but I usually go for a pickle fork. A proper separator would probably be best though.

Never do this unless you're replacing the balljoint. If you compress the threads from bashing on it, you'll never get the nut back on.

+1 and you will have to replace your balljoint.

Have you tried placing a jack under your hub/rotor, jack the suspension up 1-2" then whacking it with the hammer?

Also the tool mentioned above that looks like a clamp, I remember Canadian Tire used to borrow those, pay a deposit, when you return the tool you get your deposit back. Might wanna make a call to the store closest to you.

Does anyone have one of the crankshaft holders for a Honda timing belt replacement? I can't find anywhere that rents one so if a rs'er could help me out I'd be very grateful

I finally came across one that I couldn't gun off and called around for the special tool - don't waste your time calling CT's.

Ended up having to break out the oxy.

Good luck.

Thank you. We have the oxy out and ready to go.

Thanks guy. Brought the $25 ball joint seperator from princess auto. Lube up the area and it pop right off. Doesn't appear to have damage the ball joint boot either. I can't believe I spent all those time hammering it yesterday.

I had to take the caliper off for more space to work on it and the brake pad fell out, I just pop it back on and reinstall the caliper, do I need to reseat the pads? Or it is only when putting in new pads?

I was whatsapping with spoonek9, giving him a hard time cause he didn't help you lol. Did he tell you I said you could swing by before you went to PA to see if I could help?


Any luck?

^nope I think he went to la la land lol. Havnt been reply msg lol. All good I got it out :) always nice to find an excuse to add new tools to the collection haha.

Havnt even got to the actual good part yet taking the axle out and putting in the new one lol. Looks like it will be next weekend lol

Wtf man, you were halfway there lol!!!

All you had to do was take the off the 2 bolts for the fork and the axle nut.
Swing the hub/brakes out of the way, slide the axle out of the hub and pop it out of the tranny, done.
It should only take like 1/2 an hour.

Yes but I literally had only 10 mins to try out the tool lol. Sucks that I don't actually live at the garage that I get to work on my cars... Between life and work something simple takes ages to complete...

Scratching my head with this one...

http://i.imgur.com/iyctMHEh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/wJWjZtlh.jpg

The bolt feeds through the bushing and out the other end into the nut. I think I may have overtorqued it. I guess it's stripped? I can't loosen or tighten it right now. Serves me right for using this shitty grade 5 combination as a temp solution before I order the proper bolt and nut in from the dealer...

Snapped the oem bolt and tried to use this as a temp solution and stripped it as well. Murphy's law in effect. FML. Guess I have to cut off the head?

I've never seen an approach to solving that other than cutting off the nut, though in this case cutting off the head should work equally well..

Oops, that's what I meant.