Not turning over, or not starting? What kind of vehicle?

'95 integra, it starts but only if I floor it whilst turning the key

So it cranks but doesn't start?

Can you hear the fuel pump priming? Got spark?

again it starts, runs and is operable only if it floor the gas it whilst turning the key. W/o it clicks and stops

Turn the key to on, wait a minute, then try to start it. The fuel system may not be holding pressure while the car is off.

Your descriptions still is confusing us. Is the starter turning the engine when you don't press the gas? The previous sentence sounded like it was cranking but not actually starting. Where as this one one sounds like your not getting it to crank at all, and your just hearing the starter relay.

A 95 intergra has no electronic throttle (No electronics to get all messed up to stop the engine from cranking?) so i'm just going to go ahead and guess the engine is cranking but just not catching without touching the gas pedal.

Anyone familiar with low temp soldering or brazing?

I'm interested in building a mini fuel rail for my 240z to replace rusty stock unit on my car. It would look much too ugly on the new motor. Rather then buying or painting my current one I thought maybe I could make one. Keep in mind fuel pressure is under 4.5psi from the mechanical pump.

I had two ideas. 1) use brake line fittings and flares to make this and use a "clamp" style attachments to mount it. Or 2) use a low heat soldering method to attach mounting mounts (I would also use flares/brake fittings). I need to get some use out of my fancy eastwood flaring tool somehow :p

Keep in mind I only have a propane handheld torch. Would silver solder work with a stainless or copper/nickel brake line? Is there another method I could use?

Cheers. As I said before, it's a low pressure system
. The ends of the rail unfortunately have to be attached via standard rubber hose/clamps onto the mechanical pump and the carbs.

Hey all

Looking for some advice, I. A recent transplant from ontario ( I know, don't hate) and I've been back and forth on wether to bring my 58 Chev pickup out to live with me. I know all about how to get the vehicle 'imported' into BC, but had some other questions

1: know any EXCELLENT shops that would work on this thing? I'm used to doing it all on my own, but living in a condo I'm going to have to sub some of the work out ( small repairs, the usual stuff of a vintage car)

2: I've only seen a few classics in the vancouver area, my truck is mechanically sound, but will smoked bit ( just a bit!) while taking off from a light, burns clean while going along/ accelerating. Will this cause me any issues with the fuzz?

3: Can I come to the meets and park next to you guys? I love anything with wheels, imports to exotics to classic :)

I would think that trying to solder something together with a propane torch would only give you the strength of the weak acid flux solder. Vibrations from your engine would probably crack them in no time. Silver solder or brazing would be the way to go but you need an oxy/acetylene setup.

So I just went down one of those parking on ramps and I heard a scrape from one of my wheels...now every time I turn going parking speeds I hear this creeking sound kind of like a rusty door hinge coming from my driver side wheel. There is no sound when I go over bumps though, only when I steer at low speeds. Anyone have a clue as to what it could be?

how are your ball joints and tie rod ends?

sounds like either a bearing or a cv axle

does it sound like this?

@604_boi, nah doesnt sound like that, sounds exactly like a door hinge that needs some lube lol. Ill take a look at my tie rods when I get home though

Edit: sounds exactly like this guy's and does it only when I'm steering like him at low speeds

Definitely bring the '58 over. It shouldn't have to suffer Onterrible cold winters and hot summers any longer! Lots of capable shops to handle working on the car, it really depends on your budget. If you're looking for restoration-type shops I can definitely help you with some contacts, for every day repairs you are probably going to want someone close...in which case it's a good idea to talk to your new neighbours.

Only a few classics in Van? You must not be keeping your eyes open. It's UNREAL how many classics Vancouver has, and some absolutely amazing stuff hidden away all over the city. A puff of smoke here and there isn't going to gain you any unwanted attention, but a significant amount of smoke and/or other modifications may.

You'll fit in at the meets, a fair number of classic cars show up. The old thursday night meets had a mix of absolutely everything.

-Dave

pick up the friday edition of the vancouver sun and check the automotive section. they sometimes list local club meets. maybe someone at one of them might be able to help.

Just an update: So I went home and took my wheel off to check...and I found a giant piece of fender liner plastic just dangling there...cut it off and no more creeking...:fuckyea::derp: did also find out I have a torn inner cv boot again after replacing it a few mounths ago ..:okay:

Fuck fuck fuck.

Not really looking for advice, just venting.

Swapped front rotors and pads for centric premiums and HP+, swapped both rear rotors to centric premium, went to swap pads and guess what fucking ford decided you needed a special tool to compress the piston, any old piston compressor will not work, one with two little nubs that turns clockwise is needed.

Had to pull centrics off, put stockers back on the rear and crack open a cold one with my proverbial tail between my legs...

ummmm will take it in the shop soon but when I depress the clutch pedal everything is fine, when I release it squeals. any clue?

Most rear calipers are like that. If you're in a bind, you can usually get away with grabbing the shank of a small bolt with a pair of needle-nose pliers and use the tips to turn the piston.



What squeals? The clutch or the pedal? If you mean the former, I'd guess it would be the release bearing or input shaft bearing.

should of mention the sound comes from the engine, sounds like a gerbil running around one of those wheel things lol

I did not know that rofl.

Oh well, gotta' learn somehow right? :whistle:

seems like pilot bearing

Going to be monitoring my A/F after I install my race header and test pipe soon. Will have full bolt-ons after that (intake, TSX intake mani, race header, test pipe, catback). Been looking into wideband A/F gauges, specifically the AEM UEGO with the new Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor.

However, the factory O2 works on a 0-2v range and actually measures the current of a pump cell. This means you technically cannot use it to create a signal for use with an aftermarket A/F gauge. The AEM UEGO can output a signal that works with most factory O2 monitoring systems, however will not work on an Element because it uses this oddball setup. BUT since I am getting rid of the cat altogether, and the race header I'm installing has an O2 bung before the collector, I'm assuming I can simply stick the sensor into the O2 bung on the header because the cat is gone? Since both the stock O2 sensors will pretty much be useless given that the cat is deleted (will have to use plugs to prevent CEL), I'd simply connect the O2 sensor from the wideband onto the bung before the collector on the header?

Someone school me on these things!

if you're not tuning the car, why do you need to have an A/F?

Planning to, with either AFC Neo or Emanage Ultimate