I might have a pair of low cut alpinestars you can have for nothing that are almost new worn twice. Let me look when I get home, the only catch is you have to slum it to cloverdale to pick them up.

If he doesn't take them I will!!! :D

Rich

ahh it feels good to ride
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has anyone ever brought there leather jacket to a store to get it clean , washed or steamed clean? If so any recommendations?

You don't really need to ever do that. Damp rag, pat dry with a microfibre, hang for a day or so until completely dry then recondition lightly with whatever product you have (they're all the same) and wipe dry and hang up again.

If you do for some reason feel like specialty cleaning there's one place called Ace of Suedes. Not sure if they're still around tho. Maybe ask your neighbourhood dry cleaner.

they are, I drive by them everyday

Sent you a PM

I bought a these from Revzilla,

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/...bulls-20-shoes

Comfortable enough like shoes, but covers ankle and has a strong toe.

Also with 1st gear all the gear is recommended but not necessarily mandatory.. Our practice lot days were super hot, and we weren't riding enough for the breeze to pass through, so I asked if I could take my jacket off, and they said no problem, but at my discretion. I was confident enough to not wear the gear since I've had experience riding before, so the likely chance of me dropping or falling off the bike was pretty low.

I know the guy that's selling the 390 Duke Privately if you're interested. I was contemplating between the R3, 390 Duke, 310 and Scrambler.. After much decision and realizing that my grom would be great around the city that I should probably get something bigger for my HWY rides and any rides towards the interior, so I'm kinda leaning towards a FZ-07..

Lee from 1st gear said the R3 was the best bang for your buck and hes raced and ridden all of them except the BMW.

You could also sign up to be a dealer for Amsoil, its only $20 a year.

I did for a year and then just started getting Rotella T6 at CT when its on sale for about $90/pail

Thanks for the information, I plan on registering for classes in March or April. When do you guys usually start riding/insuring your motorcycle? Debating if I should wait until it's warmer out before I register for classes

I'm insured year round since its only $600/yr for a 400cc and under.. I have friends who ride year round. But when I had my 600 I insured it closer to March when the weather gets better.

Its really up to you when you want to do your classes. To me it all about being ready for the season. If you do your classes later, typically road tests bookings are booked up for 3 months when the season starts (March). So for those 3 months you wont be able to ride 2 up, or ride at night. Trust me, when your friends go riding at night and you're restricted. It sucks.. Or if you go out to dinner with friends and it gets dark too fast, your bike is stuck unless someone else rides it home..

Do classes when the weather is not as nice so that you can experience what it is like riding in the rain.


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I used to ride year round but now I usually insure mid March. Come May I'm commuting to work almost everyday until Octoberish.

I've been insured since late Jan. As long as there wasn't ice on the roads and no rain was falling, I was OK with my heated jacket and some warmer gloves

Looks like I'll try to register for classes in March if it doesn't interfere too much with work. I might change my mind and register with PRS instead, from reading on their website it says they provide you with a motorcycle to take your class 6 road test whereas 1st gear you have to rent. I'd like to buy a motorcycle after I get my full license.

Until he got his RC390, and took me out on the track LOL

I do believe they supply a bike, and an expedited appointment for your test, but I got my bike right as soon as I finished the course, thus didn't need it. If you already have your class 5 and feel confident, you can take your full class 6 in a month.
They do your MST on site, and kinda hard to fail once you get comfortable riding.

Yeah, a bunch of my buddies and I all went to get our class 6 together. From start to finish it took about a month to get fully licensed.

A few of us had 300s ready to for when we passed our MSA so we were able to get more comfortable on the road prior to the road test. If that's a possibility for you, I recommend picking up a cheap bike to practice on once you're able to ride alone during the day.

Well guys, we lost a rider today. A good friend of mine. Pronounced dead at the scene riding his Honda 500x. I dont really have any details on the accident, but please be careful out there. All I know is the fact that he bled out on scene. No helmet would've saved him from the impact.

RIP David.

Rest in peace, David...

RIP.

anyone an owner or have ridden the newer daytona 675r's? looking into getting a new bike this season and was wondering on peoples opinions on the bike vs the traditional japanese sport bikes.

areyez ... that's a good question; I'm pretty sure I have put mileage on most 600cc-class Japanese bikes and I currently own a Daytona 675 have previously owning a 2007 Honda CBR600RR.

A couple of observations about ergonomics first because those are things that you will notice right away... this might be more useful than talking specifications, which you can read about online anyways:

-the bikes is fairly tall and the seat height is a little higher than you will find versus many of its 600cc-class Japanese competitors
-the clip-ons sit lower than you will find on most competitors, resulting in a fairly aggressive riding position
-the foot-pegs are marginally higher than most bikes

Knowing this now I would strongly you encourage you to put some mileage on the bike before buying it to ensure that it's comfortable for your personal frame. It's not unusual for owners to raise the clip-ons (many kits exist) and get a lower seat. I have done neither but continually debate doing so.

The 675cc three-cylinder motor is spectacular. The nature of the engine means that there is plenty of toque available at lower engine speeds. This translates into much greater light-to-light enjoyment as you aren't required to rev the engine into the atmosphere to get back to traffic speeds.

The only other thing that I would add is regarding the handling. The bike's turn-in is immediate and likely faster than you may have experienced in the past. Be prepared.

The 675R adds some nice jewelry, including Ohlins suspension components, Brembo brakes at the front and some nice carbon fibre bits.

Note that there are two distinctly different variants of the 675R:

-the 2011 - 2012 model, which is based on a refreshed version of the original generation (introduced in 2006, refreshed for 2009)
-the 2013+ model

Both are great bikes but the 2013+ edition sports a heavily revised motor, frame, swing arm, sub-frame and styling.

Don't expect significant additional power from the 675R versus the normal 675.

Happy shopping!

From Today
Richmond
http://i.imgur.com/r3k7EtOl.jpg
Whytecliff
http://i.imgur.com/PSo4mqRl.jpg
back to Richmond
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