The only car you can take to the track after picking it up from the dealer is a Badhobz' next beetle, aka GT3. :troll: :troll: :troll:

Also, why the hate for Audi? (Their cars sucks so maybe I answered my own question.)

I think anyone can take any car to the track without having to make modifications. In the case of mission, how is one going to know what brake fade is or what a symptom of boiling brake fluid is by virtue of keeping it stock? I think it's logical to upgrade to go-fast goodies when you get better and bump up the ladder by getting faster as well. If a Toyota Yaris or Mazda 2 is angrily following behind you, you have to accept the fact they are faster and better than you.

If you go full-retard at the track the first time ever, you crash and likely will never go back again. Ask Badhobz's friend.

I dunno man, I think having your brakes suddenly go out is probably the single most catastrophic thing that could happen to someone, especially if they're inexperienced.

But that's also cheap and easy anyway. Change the brake fluid out to something like RBF660. That's like $25!

Maybe front pads too for brake-crazy Mission? StopTech Street Performance for maybe $70? :D

Learn to drive first before you go full-retard on the brakes.

1994 Previa - 212KM - $5000

Clean, clean, clean

^SICK!!! first thing i wanna do is go to my chicken lady and then wipe my greasy, chicken-ey hands on those clean looking seats.

https://www.facebook.com/share/167phkhGnD/

https://scontent.fcxh2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...WA&oe=6834061B

https://scontent.fcxh2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...TA&oe=6834170F

Probably more of an interesting cars for sale thread candidate but I can give this one the vouch

Owner is a steady hand, this is a clean swap. Car needs a bit of love visually or enjoy as is in hot rod mode.

There's still a pile of us around w Corrados - more than 20 in our local group chat. We try to gtg once a year at GCVW.

As for other old VW's - there's a scene. There are still 100's of solid cars ranging from survivors to full blown magazine cars. There are several groups, gatherings and cruises throughout the year.

But what's "full retard", exactly? I think it's a little more complicated than that.

Someone inexperienced is going to think "well I've been able to hit the brakes with X amount of force hundreds of times in the past with no issue. So i guess just don't press any harder than that?" And that might be a totally reasonable level of braking. But events are few and far apart.

At the track, there are all these new parameters:

• How often are braking events repeated?
• At what speed?
• How much thermal capacity do you have in each element of your braking system, and what's going to go first?
• How quickly does the heat dissipate?
• How detectable and progressive is the loss of braking function going to be?

Some noob is going to cognitively load to 100%, just trying to stay on the line. Isn't it worth a little money in fluid and pads, not to gamble on the brakes suddenly going? :p

Cars are too fast with too much driving nannies. Makes ppl think they are way better than they are.

Give them a manual 90s civic and they will not know how to drive the thing at the limit.

StopTech Street is a street+ pad, does not hold up to even longer canyon runs.

StopTech Sport probably won't hold up to mission, back to back session or long braking zones will cook them.

It's a conversation I've had a few times with different people.

Most modern cars with their turbos won't survive a full track day without hitting limp mode because the cooling system just can't keep up with the heat put out by the turbo motor running full chat. There's no cheap track day cars because like what teggy said, most modern cars are way too fast and nannies really just heats up your brakes quicker.

In stock form, picking at the enthusiast cars, I would probably trust the BRZ/86 twins, ND Miata, any of the small M cars, Type R/Type S twins to survive a track day. If only because on stock brakes, stock power, stock tires, you aren't going fast enough to elicit a failure in any one system. Most of these cars are going to be tire limited.

Start putting on stickier tires you start exposing the next weakest link, be it brake pads or cooling.

I would not trust anything from Nissan as the 370Z has had instances where it just lost it's brakes on magazine tests, and I don't have a lot of faith in the VR30DET.

There was a tuner in the M chat and he said running a plus tune on the S55 is a lot of fun on the street, don't try it on track as you'll likely just overheat the car.

PS: I guess I left out the Porsche cars, they should be ok to survive a trackday.

Why are we even talking about track stuff?

I was just trying to explain why the bespoke engineering in cars like the Type R and GR feels so much more cohesive to drive than some random lowered CX-50 with sporty tri in the Mazda3..

There’s a huge difference between a car built from the ground up for performance and one that’s a fucking lowered SUV with a torsion beam.

You started it!

Going full retard means driving the car beyond their own cognitive abilities and hammering the brakes lap after lap and cooking the brakes. That's when you need to throw an instructor in the car with them to work them up gradually and humble them up a bit. There are techniques that need to be learned in order to build up the critical thinking and motor skills to be as effective as possible.

I don't disagree that Mission is a brake-intensive track, but it takes a good driver to drive Mission lap after lap consistently while maximizing their consumables while hitting their lines.

Do noobies just go at it on their own at Mission these days? Or is everyone immediately Lewis Hamilton right from the get-go? I haven't been to mission in probably two decades so I have no idea what goes on there these days.

Thanks, yeah it looks like they changed the name from Street Performance to Sport. I went to 25+ HPDEs in NorCal on just those "Sport" pads - even on square 275-width R compound tires - and was happy to never deal again with squealing and rotor swaps. Blew through them super quickly though lol.

Anyway I'm still not super worried about a newbie's pads. At least that's going to be a progressive loss in performance. They'd smell it first, and then they'd notice they had to step on it harder and harder.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1ATBTWrC6g/

300hp, manual, LSD, brembo less than $10000

Nothing about demuffled single exit sounds lovely.

Track car, ready for mission

I can smell the engine bay amour all

Higher km but major items have been addressed

https://www.facebook.com/share/1VRLz...ibextid=wwXIfr

Decently priced stock GSR, hard to find nowadays, just needs some maintenance. Clean ones are 8-10k+

https://www.facebook.com/share/1V1HN...ibextid=wwXIfr

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...43/?ref=search

2010 Lexus IS 350 convertible 15k

The 350s are pretty reliable and that hardtop won’t let you down. Mileage is high but for that price who cares.

The IS350 vert is the hunchback of notre dame, it's so damn awkward.

Don't get me wrong, we love Lexus and almost bought a gen3 IS350 F sport RWD. It was the best car out of the 4 (3 series, C class, A4). But after that none of their offerings really made sense for us.

This might be news to you, but Hobz loves ugly cars

*Ahem* Excuse me...

Maybe if you lowered it

https://www.lexus.co.za/_next/image?...g&w=3840&q=100

It's the same disappointment I get when I see f badges but it's a rc300, is300

Looks like a well sorted and kind of rare 6mt slicktop 128i. Just missing the M Sport package for unicorn status. https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/i...1681990041560/

https://scontent.fcxh2-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7w&oe=683A9758