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I don't have a gauge that measures those things, but previously engine temps were kept cooler with 300V. Haven't tried it with my new tune yet so I'll have to see. I usually only run it for the track day and do an oil change ASAP. Unless I have 2 track days within a month, then I'll just keep running it, at which point I'll flush after the 2nd track day. I found (anecdotally) that the OEM 1L bottled Honda 0w20 oil is only good for 2 track days, then you gotta change it. I thought I could stretch it for a Mission day, but the car had noticeably louder lifter tick the other day. Running 300V isn't necessary just for oil temps/pressure. Some say that over the course of a track day, the temperature sheers 0w20 viscosity into basically nothing, so having a high quality oil that doesn't degrade as fast/much is important. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk |
I find 0W20 breaks down easily, hence the frequent oil change. I do notice a difference immediately when changing the oil on the Corolla in Toronto traffic (stop & go + highway) after say 5000KM - 8000KM, or every 6 months, whichever comes first. I did notice engine temps being lower when running 300V, but I only did track day twice that year, then put the car to sleep for the winter until the spring. Mobil 1 was "okay" but noticed an immediate difference after two track days, and I was driving the car more on the street that year. Motul was more stable/consistent for at least three or four track days, but fewer street time. This year will mostly be track duty, and much less street duty. I'll be running Mobil 1 0W40 and go back to Motul next season. |
Anyone have actual oil analysis results? New oil > after 1 track day > after 2 > after 3 New oil > after 5000kms normal driving for comparison Theres lots of "opinion" of people changing oil at x and y time, but its just blind leading the blind I tried searching for a comparison, cant find much for track specific. Only that guy on youtube that compares products for normal driving |
I thought about it, but decided not to bother simply because I change my oil once a year as a rule of thumb. I rarely ever exceed 5000KM per year. I may consider doing it this year, but I'm on the fence about it. There's a place out here in Burlington, ON called WearCheck that does a used oil analysis for customers, but it's $90 plus tax per test, but $38 if you pre-purchase a kit from them. Then there's shipping etc. Completely anecdotal: There was a guy in the local Porsche club who tracked his Boxster with the club once a month from April to October every year. He would change his oil after every track day meticulously for 7 years straight. He did a used oil analysis on it every time. The lab basically told him oil is good for another few track days (whatever that even means) and no signs of significant wear. He ran Walmart SuperTech 5W40 almost exclusively. |
You can do a blackstone analysis. I'm too lazy to do it LOL. The Type R threads have quite a bit of blackstone data, with 300V 0w40 being one of the good ones. |
So it turns out OEM Honda oil isn't good enough for more than 1 track day. The engine was pretty noisy last track day. I did an oil change yesterday... and just did 3 sessions at Mission today LOL. Car sounded significantly better. $130 Mission night was overall not bad. I was expecting very sketchy cars/people and this was fortunately not the case. There is definitely a lack of awareness and since there's no corner workers, flagging is very limited. Probably made a few BMW bois cry today lul jks. They promised a minimum of 4 sessions, but I only got 3 as they started late. Gate open at 4PM, drivers meeting at 4:30pm. I got to the lineup at 4PM and by the time I got to the paddock, it was 4:20pm lol. Driver's meeting didn't start until 5:15pm, with the first run group out at 5:25pm. Like other organizers, the run groups are of personal preference. However, unlike other organizers, they didn't cap run groups. So some groups had a lot of traffic and others didn't. They stated that Intermediate 1 (Group B) is for people who have 5+ days at Mission and Intermediate 2 (Group C) is for people who have a few (less than 5+) days at Mission. I started off in C (I only have 4 days at Mission) but the number of people who don't check their mirrors or pass with no point by is pretty stupid, so I switched to B. Less traffic and more awareness. That said there was no standard for point bys. Some people signaled, some people pointed. I have my hazards on for cooldown laps, but some people took that as an open point by LOL. Anyway, here's a clip of me climbing the wrong curb two weeks ago LOL. |
Oh, I thought you were running Motul 300v? Or do you daily on OEM Honda Oil? |
300V - Ridge events / high-temp events OEM Honda 0w20 individually bottled - Track days in general. Usually too lazy to FCPEuro the 300V. OEM Honda 0w20 drum - Daily. I have that "lifetime oil change" thing. But I'm pretty sure they use a cheaper oil. |
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I'd be curious about trying something like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W20, or heck even VW 508 oil as those are supposed to be very tough 0W20 oils that can handle high heat and won't shear as easily. |
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July 18 Aug 8 Aug 29 Sep 12 I'm considering doing Aug 8, since it's my birthday LOL. |
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So...I happen to have an extra set of 17" factory wheels for my Boxster with old/dead tires. I'm currently running Hankook Ventus RS-4 and accept the fact that they take a while to heat up, especially on the street. I'm looking to just keep these as dedicated track tires and drive from home to the track. Anyone has experience on a set of Bridgestone RE-71RS? I know they are the evolution of the original RE-71R which was "discontinued." Thanks in advance. |
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They wear fairly fast as well. Better than the RE-71R, but still pretty fast. I wouldn't mind running them as a track tire on any generation of Miatas since Miatas are just so easy on tires. But with other cars, I definitely wouldn't want to run them in the summer. IMO, Nankang CRS (made after 2023) is a better option -- the characteristics are similar, but they are generally cheaper than the Bridgestone. Both tires will benefit from being properly heat cycled (ie. with full 24 hrs cool down) before pushing them at the track again. |
Anyone goin up to area27 for Monday's event? Supposto be 39C x.x |
Thumbnail is a scam Those of you who go to Area 27 regularly: Do you ever get useto the corner at 1:43? Full send once comfortable? 1. Its blind 2. The entire car "lifts off" and my rear end kicks out somewhat, it always bites, but i always let off the gas as insurance. Anyways, got a 2:33 in 38C. I also a vaporized a quail on route to the track, its at the end of the video, the only thing in my rear view was a screen of feathers lol... too bad no rear view cam. |
I can keep the gas pedal down at that turn because my car is slow af in comparison :lol |
IIRC, T11 is the corner where the largest number of offs happen at A27, including many incidents where the car gets totaled. The corner being blind in a track day is generally not an issue. At some point, you are going to tell it apart from T8, which is the other blind left turn, so you'll know what's coming. The real "problem" is the crest because having your car thrown up reduces grip, and that can be quite unnerving. In the Miata, it is not a big issue since it is even slower than MB's FRS lol~ I mostly just keep the throttle steady and ride the crest out. In a higher powered car, I'd back off the throttle a bit, and keep it steady while riding out the crest first. Then once the suspension settles back down, I'd roll on throttle again. IIRC according to Kees (A27's chief instructor), incidents happen at that corner when people are sending it a bit too much over the crest and the rear end gets loose. The driver panics and either lifts, or worse, get on the brakes. Weight transfer happens and the tail end gets even lighter, and then you're off to a high speed spin. IMO with that corner, it is best to respect it and approach it by backing off a bit before the crest, and gradually explore how you can push it harder (in the next lap). Alternatively, since there are so many turns at A27, generally for me at least, there are other corners that are lower hanging fruits where I can push harder to shave more time from my lap than to squeeze every last drop of bit out of T11. I'm sure other more experienced drivers (like Mark and Rich) can offer better insights than I can. |
I've only had two sessions at a27 in a VERY specific car so I'm not experienced with a door slammer in that corner. The main thing I'd recommend to people is when you're approaching t11 is get the car setup to 'jump': - straighten the steering wheel - consistent throttle (not adding, and DON'T LIFT) - extend your eyes as far as possible or in this case visualize the track - try not to make any adjustments to the car until you've "landed" You're trying get the car flat (equal weight on all 4 tires). At T11 my "checklist" was - get the right side wheels to clip the curbing on entry - turn into the apex of t11 (left curb) - straighten the wheel and commit to full throttle Here's my video for reference: https://youtu.be/bGNRRJlj-vk?si=BrjXVX0WH3MT1pnr&t=96 Btw, I studied this lap pretty intensely to prepare for driving Mark's Stohr and hit helped a lot. https://youtu.be/gPO7Jbqzmdw?si=xN8hoSmoaa_G0El_ Rich |
If i go back i think thats something i will need to change, i feel like im driving "curved" thought that corner. Going straight did not feel right, but i see what your getting at |
There's a double dip at T11.. one small one bigger. I think some cars will be more sensitive to the double movement of the suspension and if you're not straight as mentioned previously and hit it the wrong way , it could send you wide into the gravel or put you into a moment. I've had some others mention if you take some of the curb, while not turning in too early, you can mostly avoid the dips by using the curbing. |
First HPDE session of the season. Yes, I am late to the game. This is with a local group called DriveTeq. https://i.imgur.com/37mU2Wi.jpeg First time out with brand new Hankook Ventus RS4 on the Boxster. Lots of online reviews indicate these take a few laps to heat up. I learned accidentally you can accelerate that by bumping up the tire pressure (not ideal.) I had to ask around, and found out for the Boxster/Cayman, they like to run 34psi hot. Anything more, they get too hot and start getting greasy. They were smoking at the end of each of my morning sessions before I lowered the pressure for the afternoon. :D Edit: I started the day with 33psi cold. After my sessions, they measured at around 39 - 41psi. In the afternoon, I lowered the tire pressure to 28psi cold, and turned out 34psi hot at the end of the sessions. I have some GoPro footage but I don't have experience on how to edit/optimize, and best place to upload. Any tips/tricks appreciated. I'll be back at CTMP late August with my local Porsche club. Looking forward to it! Just for Badhobz https://i.imgur.com/cSLdTXm.jpeg Wall of text / review of the day. Spoiler! |
Sooooo are those tires done ? They look like they are destroyed. Da faq is bubbly growth on them ?!? |
Far from it. Lots of tread left. Those are bits of rubber from other tires that got picked up from the track. |
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