[bcrdukes]

Yes, they are still around. They also sold my dad an old 5M-GE with a failed head gasket and it was spewing out coolant through the exhaust pipe while the car was operational. Good times.

Edit 1: Ironically, the head gasket on the original 5M-GE my dad had in his Cressida failed due to a head gasket but that is a common issue on these engines.
Edit 2: Engine code corrected

[68style]

Where were your guys stories 11 months ago :fuuuuu:

[bcrdukes]

:okay:

[radeonboy]

Spent Saturday driving down to Seattle for Radwood and passed 10,000mi on the way. Forgot how brutal the I-5 is heading into Seattle...

https://i.imgur.com/JCWcoph.png

[immorality]

Spent Saturday driving down to Seattle for Radwood and passed 10,000mi on the way. Forgot how brutal the I-5 is heading into Seattle...

I went down too, god damn construction with so little actual construction. The worst part was see all that traffic eventually funnel down to just a single lane, so painful...

[impactX]

I just installed an Alpine 12" Type R (sealed box) into the trunk, and wired most of it (power from battery to trunk, remote and bass level wires from deck to trunk, and rca on the other side of the car) only to find out the deck's pre-out cable is missing. fml FailFish

The weekend before I installed Cusco carbon fiber rear strut bar and a Cusco trunk bar.

I still have 2 Eibach swaybars, 3 more Cusco arm bars, 1 Cusco member support bar, Defi gauges and Greddy oil filter relocation kit left to be installed after my jack/jack stands arrive.

[underscore]

I finished rebuilding the double cardan joint in the front driveshaft of the Grand Cherokee because the balljoint was squeaking like crazy and the ujoints weren't great either, and put it back in so I have 4WD again. Of course that couldn't go smoothly and apparently the bolts for the front and rear yokes are slightly different (the rear is finer) but close enough that I was able to accidentally put one of the front bolts into the rear and I didn't find out til I went to put the last bolt into the front and found it didn't go in very far before getting stuck.

Much gnashing of teeth and turning the wee little wrench that fits later and I got it sorted. Of course when I started pulling the rear bolts to check them it was the last one that was the incorrect bolt. So what should've been a 15 minute job took about 2 hours.

[320icar]

Did some maintenance to the STi. Hit 5k km* for daily driving so changed the oil. Was down almost to the L mark on the dipstick so good thing i checked. Oil was pretty dark, but still felt good on the fingers (does that make sense to anyone but me). Also changed out both the front trans/diff and rear diff while I was at it. Both fluid came out quite clear, but shifting definitely feels improved.

Also took the time to install front and rear primitive racing 3/16” underbody protection. Was patient and scored both used for dirt cheap. Then since it was in the air I rotated the tires too.

Next on the list is to adjust the shifter. The short shift has a little rattle because it’s missing a plastic collar that the oem shifter has. Driving me nuts!


https://i.ibb.co/X5PzzL4/556-A81-D5-B20-D-4678-A846-751-D9-B0-ADFA3.jpg (https://ibb.co/FY1BB3W)

https://i.ibb.co/gjkbV5x/4-AA98-A6-A-30-F5-4-D98-B9-D9-4-F94-F0-C9-AA6-F.jpg (https://ibb.co/M2Fy6Ym)
https://i.ibb.co/PhtvsCL/F7-A12031-5738-420-E-A4-F0-1-C4-F643-E2077.jpg (https://ibb.co/Wys4NKh)
https://i.ibb.co/gM76QH6/1-C22-F010-3551-4-B55-A2-E4-AB70-E976-CC02.jpg (https://ibb.co/SXxJHWJ)
https://i.ibb.co/9nC8NCm/2-C98-A916-E291-40-F3-B83-A-26654338596-E.jpg (https://ibb.co/NxHVsHg)

*5000km since I started daily driving it. Not sure how long since the PO did an oil change. I could check the records (same for the driveline fluids) but it’s just easier for me to change it myself LOL

[Badhobz]

gents for the initial break in oil change, when should i change it out? dealer recommends 8k, but that seems a bit high to me and i think all the metal particulates needs to be removed sooner than later.

Also what about the tranny fluid? isnt there a break in flush for the tranny fluid as well?

[GIZZ]

I have about a 1000kms on my hatch b16b rebuild. I've already done 4 oil changes. 1st heat cycle, 10kms, 500, 1000.

For an auto trans I'd do take whatever the manufacturer recommends then do it twice as often. But I guess it depends on the car.

[trollface]

8in Imagine Dynamics paired with a JL 500/1

Box fits a Golf R perfectly, allowing the seats to fold. #planningahead


https://i.imgur.com/DveXUHT.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/UvnnphV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wBBkJoB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lNBNnxD.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tN3Gi5O.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/XbVO16q.jpg

[68style]

People still do this?

Where’s your Pioneer dolphin graphics deck?

[320icar]

gents for the initial break in oil change, when should i change it out? dealer recommends 8k, but that seems a bit high to me and i think all the metal particulates needs to be removed sooner than later.

Also what about the tranny fluid? isnt there a break in flush for the tranny fluid as well?

I’ll be that guy and just say, I bet Toyota knows better than we do. If you want to do a change at 1k then every 8 after that, probably fine.

If Harry built your motor a week before race wars, probably good idea to do what Gizz is. 15km oil change to flush out all the assembly lube. 1000km of conventional oil, then synthetic every xxxxkm after that

[bcrdukes]

gents for the initial break in oil change, when should i change it out? dealer recommends 8k, but that seems a bit high to me and i think all the metal particulates needs to be removed sooner than later.

Also what about the tranny fluid? isnt there a break in flush for the tranny fluid as well?

How much mileage do you expect to put on the car and do you drive the hell out of it or drive like normal as you would in Richmond traffic? Will you even hit 8K KM this year?

I'm of the opinion Toyota knows best since your car has been built to some very tight tolerances. Perhaps a matter of time and heat cycles as GIZZ does on his Honda motor, but I can only assume (emphasis on assume) his is a daily driver or a race engine of some kind. On my motorcycles, I used to rev the living crap out fo them to red line for a number of rides then change the oil. They never gave me a problem but I don't recommend doing that to your car lol

For transmission, I'm not familiar with this part. I'd leave it as is. Maybe if Lexus misdiagnoses your car, you might get a new transmission, just like how I did under warranty. :D

I have about a 1000kms on my hatch b16b rebuild. I've already done 4 oil changes. 1st heat cycle, 10kms, 500, 1000.

For an auto trans I'd do take whatever the manufacturer recommends then do it twice as often. But I guess it depends on the car.

[underscore]

Especially on a car that high end I would think some of that break in is done at the factory, no?

[Badhobz]

im just gonna dump the factory oil today. its at 1800km right now and its probably overkill but at least it'll give me some piece of mind that im not spinning metal shavings around in the engine. ill dump it again at 8000km and continue their normal 5k(miles or 8000km) oil intervals (weird its only 5k and conventional 5w30 on the LC)

i was always curious if the tranny had a similar break in schedule. i tried looking online and it seems nobody does that. But isnt that the same deal? doesnt the tranny have some metal shavings in the fluid?

[bcrdukes]

haha i think it's okay. it's a Lexus, not a POS Porsche. :D

[trollface]

People still do this?

Where’s your Pioneer dolphin graphics deck?

The stock stero in my car sounds like banging two rocks together, I don’t drive no Lc500 man.

[impactX]

im just gonna dump the factory oil today. its at 1800km right now and its probably overkill but at least it'll give me some piece of mind that im not spinning metal shavings around in the engine. ill dump it again at 8000km and continue their normal 5k(miles or 8000km) oil intervals (weird its only 5k and conventional 5w30 on the LC)

i was always curious if the tranny had a similar break in schedule. i tried looking online and it seems nobody does that. But isnt that the same deal? doesnt the tranny have some metal shavings in the fluid?

What car is this?

I just had my slushbox rebuilt at 220k km, the guy who rebuilt it recommended me to drain and refill tranny fluid at 5k km and 10k km.

Another tranny mechanic also swear by drain + refill every year, and never having the rebuild the tranny.

I will be doing both and installing my Hayden tranny cooler at 5k km.



Didn't anything to my car today but saw this Toyota Century with 5.0 V12:

https://i.imgur.com/YZ7AjDV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kkkVDdh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mNsGI5P.jpg

and unpacked my jack and jack stands today - Torin Big Red ultra low profile 3 ton in black and 4 Torin aluminum jack stands:
https://www.amazon.com/BIG-RED-ATZ830026XR-Hydraulic-Capacity/dp/B0897YBHSQ
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Aluminum-Jack-Stands/dp/B0007XTGCI

https://i.imgur.com/Hk5iG0W.jpg

I had doubts about aluminum jack stands (and their pins) until I saw this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjmXQNhKCks

[trollface]

That's an absurd amount of weight for one jackstand. I don't think you have anything to worry about with either one.

Who is putting 5,000 KG on one stand? Your car would have to be made of plutonium.

[68style]

Did you get a Star Trek Enterprise license plate? lol

Not only is that jackstand impressive, it also came with a crazy amount of packaging!

[impactX]

Did you get a Star Trek Enterprise license plate? lol

Not only is that jackstand impressive, it also came with a crazy amount of packaging!

bahahaha yes to Enterprise plate :lol

[impactX]

Installed a12” Alpine Type R sub within a sealed box into the car with the R-A75M 750W RMS amp, and a set of grounding kit.

https://i.imgur.com/ydxrBCG.jpg

Also bought 3 Tohnichi torque wrenches to work on upgrading my suspension and maintaining the slushbox. They are supposedly the first manufacturer of torque wrenches in Japan and are used by Toyota factory and perhaps Japanese motogp teams. Goes from 2-10nm, 10-50nm and 40-200nm. They are guaranteed accurate up to 100,000 clicks or one year (the latter is meh but oh well, not very likely that I will click 100,000 times in my life time).

https://i.imgur.com/hpyTiFi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/p4RCANh.jpg

[Badhobz]

^how much are those torque wrenches and where did you get'em from? i also want a set.

[bcrdukes]

I got mine on Amazon :pokerface:

[Razor Ramon HG]

I got mine on Amazon :pokerface:

I've been using this torque wrench and socket set off of Amazon. Been working pretty well so far, lol (knock on wood).

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07M68G49R/

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09DCBT2QF

[impactX]

^how much are those torque wrenches and where did you get'em from? i also want a set.

I got mine from Amazon Japan and they ship internationally.


https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/gp/aw/d/B00C3G6IQO
https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/gp/aw/d/B002P8K4RO
https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/gp/aw/d/B002P8YRUO

Unfortunately it does not come with a hard case and only local sellers in Japan sell the case, and I had to get it shipped separately.

[BIC_BAWS]

In preparation of the Sept 18 day, we had another eventful day of prepping the cars. This time around tho, we bought a Motive Pressure Bleeder.

FA5 (8th gen civic si) - Flushed MTF, front/rear pads (carbotech XP10), Stoptech SS lines, flushed brake fluid with ATE Type 200.

FK8 (10th gen civic type r) - Front rotor replacement with EBC (yuck) blank (black yuck) rotors, front/rear pads (Project Mu Club Racer), Deftmotion SS lines, flushed brake fluid with Castrol SRF (courtesy of FCPEuro)

Everything was pretty straight forward, but we jinked ourselves again because the "e" and "q" word was dropped a few times. Lines were quite difficult on the FK8, because apparently people don't work on their cars themselves anymore, so we had to figure most things out via trial & error and by looking at the parts. Eventually figured it out, but I gotta say, I fucking hate retaining clips.

Lines on the FA5 were pretty straight forward, up until we realized that one of the hard lines was replaced at some point of prev. ownership, because it didn't mount up to the SS lines properly. We couldn't get the threads to catch because it would bottom out first. We even swapped the lines to see if it was a line error. Unfortunately, it wasn't.

The brake bleed was interesting. So just a FYI, the torque spec for the banjo bolt on the FK8's rear caliper is 36ft-lbs. We didn't know this. We didn't even know it wasn't tight enough until the power bleeder kept losing pressure. Through a very methodological testing procedure (me pump the brakes), we found leaks throughout the system. Fixed the leaks, proceeded to bleed the brakes, no further issues were found. The brake feel isn't where I thought it would be at with all these upgrades, but I'm hoping that after the first lap out and a proper bed, it'll improve.

Yesterday I got Cho's 275/35/18 RS4s mounted to my car. I'm now running 275 f 255 r. Previously it was 255 f 235 r. Turns are definitely less sketchy, but the car feels way slower on the 275s.

I've got Motul 300V coming in on Tuesday, so that's up next for track prep.

[bcrdukes]

Please, do not use 300v for your street car. It is not good for cars with catalytic converters.

[BIC_BAWS]

I was only planning on running it for track and then immediately doing an oil change due to lack of additives. I'm surprised because that's supposedly the godtier oil that a lot FK8 owners run.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

[GIZZ]

I have the motive pressure that comes in clutch with some jobs. But I generally use a vacuum bleeder.

For leaks on this stuff, the biggest thing is to not reuse crush washers. Next is to keep it clean.

[GIZZ]

Working on my 98 civic again today. I wired up a fuel pressure sensor to the ems yesterday, the filter strainer sock was collapsing into the pump, fixed that. Still losing fuel pressure over 8500rpm, still going lean. Walbro 255 with 55# injectors, I'm going to try hotwiring to the tank again, but also double up the wires in the tank to the pump.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RwAqh-6ZYr4

[BIC_BAWS]

For leaks on this stuff, the biggest thing is to not reuse crush washers. Next is to keep it clean.

That's exactly why it leaked haha. I pushed the brake pedal down and all I heard was a steam of fluid. A big oh shit moment

I didn't realize I had to take off a banjo bolt otherwise I definitely would have bought new hardware. Unfortunately it was 7pm on a Sunday so the only option was to flip the crush washer - fortunately it worked

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

[EvoFire]

In preparation of the Sept 18 day, we had another eventful day of prepping the cars. This time around tho, we bought a Motive Pressure Bleeder.

FA5 (8th gen civic si) - Flushed MTF, front/rear pads (carbotech XP10), Stoptech SS lines, flushed brake fluid with ATE Type 200.

FK8 (10th gen civic type r) - Front rotor replacement with EBC (yuck) blank (black yuck) rotors, front/rear pads (Project Mu Club Racer), Deftmotion SS lines, flushed brake fluid with Castrol SRF (courtesy of FCPEuro)

Everything was pretty straight forward, but we jinked ourselves again because the "e" and "q" word was dropped a few times. Lines were quite difficult on the FK8, because apparently people don't work on their cars themselves anymore, so we had to figure most things out via trial & error and by looking at the parts. Eventually figured it out, but I gotta say, I fucking hate retaining clips.

Lines on the FA5 were pretty straight forward, up until we realized that one of the hard lines was replaced at some point of prev. ownership, because it didn't mount up to the SS lines properly. We couldn't get the threads to catch because it would bottom out first. We even swapped the lines to see if it was a line error. Unfortunately, it wasn't.

The brake bleed was interesting. So just a FYI, the torque spec for the banjo bolt on the FK8's rear caliper is 36ft-lbs. We didn't know this. We didn't even know it wasn't tight enough until the power bleeder kept losing pressure. Through a very methodological testing procedure (me pump the brakes), we found leaks throughout the system. Fixed the leaks, proceeded to bleed the brakes, no further issues were found. The brake feel isn't where I thought it would be at with all these upgrades, but I'm hoping that after the first lap out and a proper bed, it'll improve.

Yesterday I got Cho's 275/35/18 RS4s mounted to my car. I'm now running 275 f 255 r. Previously it was 255 f 235 r. Turns are definitely less sketchy, but the car feels way slower on the 275s.

I've got Motul 300V coming in on Tuesday, so that's up next for track prep.

I went ATE 200 and steel lines on my MS3. I didn't feel like it made too much difference on the street, I don't think street driving is anywhere close to taxing enough to feel lines and fluid unless you were running 10yr old fluid.

Where I THINK made a huge difference was on track (emphasis on think).
The brakes were super good with the MS3 at Mission. Never fazed the car even lapping really hard.

The comparison is on the M3 where everything is stock except for fluid, at Mission it got more inconsistent as I pushed it harder. The pedal pressure and feel were inconsistent, the stopping distances were inconsistent, and I couldn't push on braking. Part of it may be due to the pads as the OEM pads aren't amazing.

[bcrdukes]

I was only planning on running it for track and then immediately doing an oil change due to lack of additives. I'm surprised because that's supposedly the godtier oil that a lot FK8 owners run.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Unless there's a reason for running 300V, your off-the-shelf oil will suffice. The savings had from off-the-shelf oil I'm sure you know is quite significant.

I used to change my oil after 2 or 3 track days and after sending it off for a used oil analysis, I realized I was just wasting money so I just change it once a year.

[68style]

Whoever thought of starting that oil analysis company is a frickin genius lol

[supafamous]

I've been using this torque wrench and socket set off of Amazon. Been working pretty well so far, lol (knock on wood).

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07M68G49R/

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09DCBT2QF

Am also using a Lexivon torque wrench - mine is the 1/2" one (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07MP1Q3W8/?th=1). Feels well built, works well far as I can tell, and has good reviews. Also cheap. I only need it twice a year for the winter tire swaps.

[68style]

I don't really trust the clicking ones, I've found various ones to be wildly inconsistent so I definitely wouldn't trust a cheapy one. Keep in mind it's just a tensioned spring-like mechanism inside that's "letting go" at a certain amount.

I actually still use an old one of my dad's with a tensioned needle over a gauge on it.

[Razor Ramon HG]

I don't really trust the clicking ones, I've found various ones to be wildly inconsistent so I definitely wouldn't trust a cheapy one. Keep in mind it's just a tensioned spring-like mechanism inside that's "letting go" at a certain amount.

I actually still use an old one of my dad's with a tensioned needle over a gauge on it.

How is this one? I forgot to mention that I use this MAXIMUM 1/2 for my wheels. It says "Features a ball bearing release mechanism for high accuracy (3% counter clockwise)"

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-1-2-in-drive-torque-wrench-50-250-ft-lbs-0589399p.html?loc=plp

I use the Lexivon 3/8 one for the random nuts here and there in tighter reach places in my car.

[trollface]

The amazon click bois are actually pretty accurate. If you're just doing basic work, they're fine. We're not building top fuel motors here.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HP4uECoH8cc

[bcrdukes]

I use the EP Auto torque wrench from Amazon. For wheels lug nuts, I have a Dewalt as part of a package I got from Canadian Tire.

[AzNightmare]

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/usedphotosna/99003596_614.jpg

I just use the entry level Mastercraft one. Been using it for about 8 years and it's worked fine. I only use it for changing wheels a couple times a year.

The precision seem good enough. No wheel has ever came loose or fallen off while on the road, lol.

[BIC_BAWS]

I went ATE 200 and steel lines on my MS3. I didn't feel like it made too much difference on the street, I don't think street driving is anywhere close to taxing enough to feel lines and fluid unless you were running 10yr old fluid.

Where I THINK made a huge difference was on track (emphasis on think).
The brakes were super good with the MS3 at Mission. Never fazed the car even lapping really hard.

The comparison is on the M3 where everything is stock except for fluid, at Mission it got more inconsistent as I pushed it harder. The pedal pressure and feel were inconsistent, the stopping distances were inconsistent, and I couldn't push on braking. Part of it may be due to the pads as the OEM pads aren't amazing.

I think I'm looking for a strong initial bite. The first 20% of my pedal doesn't really do anything, I have to press down hard to get some braking in. Granted that's good modulation but also kind of sus because I don't know if I'm braking - which is how I ended up overslowing the car on some corners (track)

Interesting about the F80, I typically like OEM BMW M pads. They're dusty, but they stop. I think BMW M cars are usually undersized brakes. I thought that would have changed with the M BBK.


Unless there's a reason for running 300V, your off-the-shelf oil will suffice. The savings had from off-the-shelf oil I'm sure you know is quite significant.

I used to change my oil after 2 or 3 track days and after sending it off for a used oil analysis, I realized I was just wasting money so I just change it once a year.

The OEM oil is 0w20. From what I've read the 5w30 300V has the least amount of oil thining out on track. I get oil for life via a dealership package so my plan was to run Motul 300V, get an oil change done at the dealership and then get Motul 300V again for next track day.

The motul 300v is covered under FCP Euro warranty.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

[underscore]

This was from years ago, but iirc if you buy a cheapish torque wrench and have it calibrated it'll be just as good as a fancy one. I rarely bother to use mine unless it's something like a hub nut where the torque spec actaully matters.

[bcrdukes]

The OEM oil is 0w20. From what I've read the 5w30 300V has the least amount of oil thining out on track. I get oil for life via a dealership package so my plan was to run Motul 300V, get an oil change done at the dealership and then get Motul 300V again for next track day.

The motul 300v is covered under FCP Euro warranty.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Fancy

[68style]

That's why he's the BIC_BAWS... not the BIC_UNDERLING

[SkunkWorks]

Buying consumables and fluids from fcp is dope. Combine with cheap domestic shipping from pt bob or Blaine and you're wet.

[Traum]

The motul 300v is covered under FCP Euro warranty.


Buying consumables and fluids from fcp is dope. Combine with cheap domestic shipping from pt bob or Blaine and you're wet.
So you get a free lifetime supply of (the same) oil if you buy it once from FCP Euro???

What the heck is this wizardry / pyramid scheme are you guys talking about here???

[bcrdukes]

So you get a free lifetime supply of (the same) oil if you buy it once from FCP Euro???

What the heck is this wizardry / pyramid scheme are you guys talking about here???

Traum, I am disappoint.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee

[Traum]

The only exclusion to this program is empty containers with contents that can not be physically returned.

For example aerosol spray cleaners and additives that have been discharged or emptied.
But empty oil jugs are OK, eh?

So basically you just end up paying shipping. I am guessing most of you ship the used/worn stuff back from here (in Canada)? In the past when I tried to mail stuff out to US buyers from PR or Blaine, the US border guard(s) gave me a lot of shxt.

[bcrdukes]

I have personally never used FCP Euro as the time and distance for me to take advantage of their return policy far outweighs that of the total drive time and associated costs to do so. If I lived in Vancouver, that would likely be a different story.

I won a contest on Rennlist for a case of Motul 300V and ran it in my Boxster for a season and it smoked like crazy so I stopped using it and switched back to off-the-shelf oil. If Motul 300v didn’t smoke on my ghetto car, I’d take advantage of FCP Euro’s return policy.

[BIC_BAWS]

Traum, I am disappoint.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee

But empty oil jugs are OK, eh?

So basically you just end up paying shipping. I am guessing most of you ship the used/worn stuff back from here (in Canada)? In the past when I tried to mail stuff out to US buyers from PR or Blaine, the US border guard(s) gave me a lot of shxt.

The border guards still give me shit but I tell them I'm making a warranty return and have the documents to prove it LOL.

You don't even pay for shipping. Return shipping is covered by PayPal.

I also got Castrol SRF from FCPEuro LOL. They might ban me for abusing the policy if I warranty it every week, but I only track about 2-3x a season. Hoping to bump it up to 5 but rotors and pads are expensive with no FCPEuro support.

[EvoFire]

I think I'm looking for a strong initial bite. The first 20% of my pedal doesn't really do anything, I have to press down hard to get some braking in. Granted that's good modulation but also kind of sus because I don't know if I'm braking - which is how I ended up overslowing the car on some corners (track)

Interesting about the F80, I typically like OEM BMW M pads. They're dusty, but they stop. I think BMW M cars are usually undersized brakes. I thought that would have changed with the M BBK.

That's going to be a pad thing rather than something lines and fluid can solve, like my experience it's most likely going to be a consistency thing rather than bite.

You'll probably need to do more research on which pad gives you the drag profile you are looking for and even have to shell out for a few sets. I don't know how the braking system is on the FK8 (was supposed to give Cho's car a twirl but didn't happen at the end).

For my MS3, I noticed that the car is something retarded like 85% front and 15% rear brakes. I was at 100k when I finally swapped out the rears, and that was because I was taking the car to Mission and wanted to swap otherwise the original OEM bits would have probably lasted another 50k.
I did the poor man's brake proportioning by installing a more aggressive pad on the rear (Stoptech sport on the front, EBC Yellow rear) to move the brake balance rearward. It worked though the drag profile was a little off as the yellows gripped harder as I braked harder.

[SkunkWorks]

On a trip back from Portland, averaged 3.8 km/100 L in the Insight sans hypermiling as we were still going around 70 mph most of the way back.

This was all ICE only as the hybrid battery is disconnected (awaiting lithium conversion).

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/303383608_10159108466999353_3191684616412264016_n. jpg?_nc_cat=104&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=75PP27M9be4AX-ZrIXx&_nc_oc=AQlcwGmg8OCVijxQAmyMBrJ16_Oxr8ADEDzlePqBA0s vlZYcdENR2fHpoDQs2zaaoYk&_nc_ht=scontent.fcxh3-1.fna&oh=00_AT-2aIrKcMaYaQ-Uec2SoJPfvZ9CQPRqa3kUKrY5mmSjdQ&oe=63291D78

[Badhobz]

Such cool gauges.

[68style]

Such cool gauges.

Reading this made me randomly remember the time Dodge produced multiple years of the Daytona with it spelled "GAGE" on the cluster's warning lights in every car lol

[asian_XL]

I washed my car today

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/attachments/3211-jpg.852704/

[Badhobz]

I added cf mirror caps. Easy stick on with double sided tape
Should protect this exposed plastic from rock chips
https://i.postimg.cc/DwkWwJYD/IMG-6317.jpg

And got this key enclosure from aliexpress

https://i.postimg.cc/Bbf6QRmF/07-B0-A4-D1-127-A-40-D5-AFAD-34241-C1-DD5-D0.jpg

[bcrdukes]

Nice Corolla

[Badhobz]

https://c.tenor.com/ml4WRO5rAN8AAAAM/toyota-corolla.gif

[Razor Ramon HG]

Anyone use ONR as a waterless wash?

I was thinking of something like this - use hose to spray it down, spray ONR at 16:1 dilution (quick detailer dilution), wipe dry. This is for when I don't have time to do a full on foam and two bucket wash.

People recommend Opti-Clean for it instead, but just wondering what you guys think since I received a bottle of it today after reading about how versatile it is. I just made a few bottles of it diluted for quick detailing, interior detailing/glass cleaner and as a clay lube.

[impactX]

Got my Figs cerakoted header heat shield and subframe braces this weekend and installed them immediately:

https://i.imgur.com/63M1W4A.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hA35tWG.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uvIRSL1.jpg

Replaced these OEM stamped braces:
https://i.imgur.com/rZ306J4.jpg

with these:
https://i.imgur.com/MnrGRxw.jpg

I could feel the difference made by the braces but it was subtle.

Also measured the dimensions of the rear lower control arm in order to calculate the motion ratio, to select the appropriate spring rate when the time comes for a set of coilovers. I am aiming for a frequency of 2hz to 2.5hz… interestingly there is no reliable data on the IS300/Altezza on the internet (everyone just goes “this is too soft” without any data to back up their claims) whilst GT86’s suspension geometries can easily be found…

After a week of testing, I can conclude that the grounding kit makes a huge difference in throttle response (IS300 is 75% drive-by-wire…)

[EvoFire]

Anyone use ONR as a waterless wash?

I was thinking of something like this - use hose to spray it down, spray ONR at 16:1 dilution (quick detailer dilution), wipe dry. This is for when I don't have time to do a full on foam and two bucket wash.

People recommend Opti-Clean for it instead, but just wondering what you guys think since I received a bottle of it today after reading about how versatile it is. I just made a few bottles of it diluted for quick detailing, interior detailing/glass cleaner and as a clay lube.

I have a bottle of ONR, used it a few times but I don't like it. I'll just drive it to Royal Oak and spray it down, I get the benefit of spray down the wheel wells too.

[JDMDreams]

I've used Onr as clay lube quick detailer but never as a soap as I have so many other soaps I haven't finished. When I get lazy or if the weather is bad what I do is still with a bucket of soap. But I mist the whole car down still with a hose on mist setting inside the garage. Then I wash each panel with a mitt then mist off each panel one by one. I still haven't run into the situation where I had to wash a car with zero water and had to fully use Onr. :pokerface:

[supafamous]

Anyone use ONR as a waterless wash?

I was thinking of something like this - use hose to spray it down, spray ONR at 16:1 dilution (quick detailer dilution), wipe dry. This is for when I don't have time to do a full on foam and two bucket wash.

People recommend Opti-Clean for it instead, but just wondering what you guys think since I received a bottle of it today after reading about how versatile it is. I just made a few bottles of it diluted for quick detailing, interior detailing/glass cleaner and as a clay lube.

No need to hose it down unless it's really dirty just spray and wipe. Optimum's rec is 10oz to a gallon for waterless washing (https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/d212he/how_effective_is_onr_as_waterless_wash/).

I do ONR rinse less with a Big Red Sponge (https://carzilla.ca/products/optimum-big-red-sponge) instead and think it's the easiest way to do an ONR wash. I can bang it out in 15-20 mins in my garage during the winter. I get maybe a litre or two of water on the ground - not so much that it annoys my wife.

re: 2 bucket - this year I switched to just using 4-5 mitts with one bucket instead and I find it saves me a bit of time and is a bit less hassle. The dirty mitts just go into another bucket.

[Oshiguru]

The border guards still give me shit but I tell them I'm making a warranty return and have the documents to prove it LOL.

You don't even pay for shipping. Return shipping is covered by PayPal.

I also got Castrol SRF from FCPEuro LOL. They might ban me for abusing the policy if I warranty it every week, but I only track about 2-3x a season. Hoping to bump it up to 5 but rotors and pads are expensive with no FCPEuro support.

Wait how did you get PayPal to cover the return shipping, When i used the LRG I had to pay shipping from usps.

[bcrdukes]

Swapped out the test pipe/catless header on the Mini today for a Scorpion performance header with 200 cel catalytic converter.

Thank goodnes for no more exhaust leak and a more civil ride without all the cracks, bangs, awful unburnt fuel smell and check engine lights on the dash.

Pro Tip: Buying parts originating from the UK results in no duty! Eff you, NAFTA! (Or whatever it's called now.)

[impactX]

Installed front and rear Cusco lower arm braces today:

Stock
https://i.imgur.com/GTUmC21.jpg

Stock vs Cusco front
https://i.imgur.com/e3rXkGF.jpg

Installed
https://i.imgur.com/H709Ddg.jpg

The rear brace was a pain in the neck. No problem with 7 of the 8 bolts but the tolerance on the last bolt/hole was too tight; I had to remove the bolts and reinstalled the brace twice under the car. Now my body is sore.
https://i.imgur.com/2siBLNc.jpg

Took it for a test drive and it felt awesome; hit 215k on the odometer on the way.
https://i.imgur.com/1g5kggj.jpg

[EvoFire]

Installed front and rear Cusco lower arm braces today:

Stock
https://i.imgur.com/GTUmC21.jpg

Stock vs Cusco front
https://i.imgur.com/e3rXkGF.jpg

Installed
https://i.imgur.com/H709Ddg.jpg

The rear brace was a pain in the neck. No problem with 7 of the 8 bolts but the tolerance on the last bolt/hole was too tight; I had to remove the bolts and reinstalled the brace twice under the car. Now my body is sore.
https://i.imgur.com/2siBLNc.jpg

Took it for a test drive and it felt awesome; hit 215k on the odometer on the way.
https://i.imgur.com/1g5kggj.jpg

Do you feel a difference? I've always questioned the effectiveness of replacing bracing that's effectively the same. Adding bracing sure I can understand.

[impactX]

Do you feel a difference? I've always questioned the effectiveness of replacing bracing that's effectively the same. Adding bracing sure I can understand.

Yes, the chassis feels firmer with less flex, but having said that, I can’t tell whether it was mainly from the rear since I installed both at the same time. And unlike the front, the rear was an add on to the stock braces that ran from front to back only but not from side to side.

I think design-wise, with the thickness of the bar and the way the cross bar links to V at the middle instead of being closer to the top like the stock one, the Cusco front bar would have less flex (or would resist torsion better) than stock but by how much, I can’t tell.

[impactX]

Pieced together these at home today:

Cusco front member brace
Eibach 28mm front sway bar
Whiteline lateral locks
Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings and brackets (needed to trim the brackets for them to fit on the brace)

https://i.imgur.com/o1lARzP.jpg

[EvoFire]

Pieced together these at home today:

Cusco front member brace
Eibach 28mm front sway bar
Whiteline lateral locks
Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings and brackets (needed to trim the brackets for them to fit on the brace)

https://i.imgur.com/o1lARzP.jpg

I heard you like bars, so I put a bar on your bar......

[bcrdukes]

Will this IS300 be even street drivable anymore after all these mods? :lol

[68style]

I hope HK's roads are smooth as buttah

[impactX]

Will this IS300 be even street drivable anymore after all these mods? :lol

I still have stock springs and "mostly" stock ride height (the front sits lower than stock because Bilstein B6 had a setting that allows the spring to sit lower. :D So far the car feels great with all the chassis braces without any extra harshness; but the sway bars will change the cornering quite dramatically. I have been reluctant to put the sway bars on but mainly due to bad experiences in dealing with end links on the Solara that refused to come off and having to get new ones...


I hope HK's roads are smooth as buttah

The highways which I drive mostly on, they are ok; but the streets are uneven or full of potholes similar to Vancouver. And Vancouver has trained me well lol.

[EvoFire]

I still have stock springs and "mostly" stock ride height (the front sits lower than stock because Bilstein B6 had a setting that allows the spring to sit lower. :D So far the car feels great with all the chassis braces without any extra harshness; but the sway bars will change the cornering quite dramatically. I have been reluctant to put the sway bars on but mainly due to bad experiences in dealing with end links on the Solara that refused to come off and having to get new ones...




The highways which I drive mostly on, they are ok; but the streets are uneven or full of potholes similar to Vancouver. And Vancouver has trained me well lol.

I typically put new links on when I put a new bar on anyways.

My experience with HK roads (not that I've driven in HK) is that they use concrete slabs for a lot of stuff. You end up have slabs that stick up and also lots of hopping between slabs.

[underscore]

I have been reluctant to put the sway bars on but mainly due to bad experiences in dealing with end links on the Solara that refused to come off and having to get new ones...

I'm assuming they're the same style Toyota used on a lot of stuff where you have to try and put an allen key in the middle? Buy new ones so you can just cut them off right away, it makes life so much easier.

[hotong]

I added cf mirror caps. Easy stick on with double sided tape
Should protect this exposed plastic from rock chips
https://i.postimg.cc/DwkWwJYD/IMG-6317.jpg

And got this key enclosure from aliexpress

https://i.postimg.cc/Bbf6QRmF/07-B0-A4-D1-127-A-40-D5-AFAD-34241-C1-DD5-D0.jpg

Where did you get the caps from?

[Badhobz]

https://zenmarket.jp/s/msway/mg-cfrp-lc-mirrorcover?id=da6a58bb-18a7-434e-8f07-51f3b3b5f9af

Japan!

Do you have an LC too? Wanna hang out :megusta:

[donk.]

After 10 years of burnouts, donuts, offroading and never having a bill over 800$ for my cars, today was the day.

Two months ago I decided to do an extra long 1st gear peeeeeeel, the car had a whine on light acceleration right after in all gears.

5,500$ later for a new trans and diff, she's back to normal.

:drunk:

I think it's time I stop doing burnouts.

[Razor Ramon HG]

Anyone know if the clock spring is interchangeable between a GT86 and a BRZ? The one for the BRZ is like $180 vs. $295 USD for the GT86.

[Badhobz]

arrrghhh i curbed my front lip on my own stupid driveway. i always back into my driveway and ive never had an issue. The one time i slowly head in, i scrape the bottom.

https://i.postimg.cc/PJkHr1x1/Capture.jpg

Now im going to buy a bunch of these triangles and stick them underneath it

https://www.amazon.ca/SLIPLO-Universal-Protection-Aftermarket-Anti-Scratch/dp/B09KZHFR99/ref=asc_df_B09KZHFR99/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=579365500277&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14024949211787426651&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001569&hvtargid=pla-1463979299910&psc=1

[GIZZ]

After 10 years of burnouts, donuts, offroading and never having a bill over 800$ for my cars, today was the day.

Two months ago I decided to do an extra long 1st gear peeeeeeel, the car had a whine on light acceleration right after in all gears.

5,500$ later for a new trans and diff, she's back to normal.

:drunk:

I think it's time I stop doing burnouts.

what car?

I just buttoned up my tsx trans job last night. I replaced mainshaft bearings, the whine is gone! But yes, I'll have to be less abusive with this one. I'll beat up my other car that's an easier trans overhaul.

While I had the cradle out, oil pan reseal. And a new bullshit jobber radiator(can't believe performance radiator gave me this)

[donk.]

what car?



07 Saturn sky RL
I wish I had space like you to attempt a diy , or at least find out what exactly failed

[radeonboy]

arrrghhh i curbed my front lip on my own stupid driveway. i always back into my driveway and ive never had an issue. The one time i slowly head in, i scrape the bottom.

Now im going to buy a bunch of these triangles and stick them underneath it

https://www.amazon.ca/SLIPLO-Universal-Protection-Aftermarket-Anti-Scratch/dp/B09KZHFR99/ref=asc_df_B09KZHFR99/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=579365500277&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14024949211787426651&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001569&hvtargid=pla-1463979299910&psc=1

Very curious to know how well it works if you install them - I need something similar for my car but looked up curb ramps instead.

[hud 91gt]

07 Saturn sky RL
I wish I had space like you to attempt a diy , or at least find out what exactly failed

That’s half an LS swap?!?! Then you can do all the burnouts you ever dream of! Haha

[Badhobz]

Can you fit an LS in a sky redline ? That engine bay is tiny as shit.

[BIC_BAWS]

Can you fit an LS in a sky redline ? That engine bay is tiny as shit.https://youtu.be/r7SuNUUX1Is

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

[Badhobz]

I wish my ah mo knew how to drive stick. Or just drive at all. I’d totally buy her a sweet little convertible and fuck around with it.

[fliptuner]

07 Saturn sky RL
I wish I had space like you to attempt a diy , or at least find out what exactly failed

Wish I knew. I have 2, AR5's sitting in storage.

[CorneringArtist]

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/581247642558791680/1034640228184498236/IMG_8603.jpg

I got new license plates.

[BIC_BAWS]

Too bad it doesn't let you do 7 letters ... I'd make mine BIC BAWS but now I have to settle for one BAW or BI BAWS

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

[Badhobz]

they wont give you baws. or even BIC because thats a copyrighted name i think.

plus you gotta give justification next to the name... BIC BAWS means uhhhh

they'll reject it. just like they've rejected my stugots and variations of that (for the maz before)

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EUtSucTVAAEq6Ip.jpg

[EvoFire]

Too bad it doesn't let you do 7 letters ... I'd make mine BIC BAWS but now I have to settle for one BAW or BI BAWS

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Just move to be buddies with dukes.

[underscore]

Just get BIC AWS and add the other B yourself lol. Tell them it's for British International Corporations Amazon Web Services or something.

[donk.]

but now I have to settle for BI BAWS

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

You living on davie now?

[Simplex123]

Swapped to winters today and noticed my wheel wells were hella filthy. Gave it a good spray down and cleaned the drain holes while the wheels were off.

A good idea to clean and make sure your drain holes are clear of leaves/dirt maybe once in Nov and again in Dec to prevent clogging/rust.

[bcrdukes]

Swapped to winters as well. Got new tires - Michelin X-Ice.

[supafamous]

Getting around to sound proofing the doors on my car - this was a piece of cake. Also used sound blocker (mass loaded vinyl) on doors for the first time and it was way easier to do than I expected. If you're going into the door for this stuff I highly recommend doing MLV as well. Figure a full day for both dampener and blocker for a 4 door car.

Still got 1 door to do and the trunk before I can call it mostly done which I will take care of next week.

https://i.imgur.com/I9cOCOM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/P28QB9R.jpg

[Badhobz]

You really gotta do a decibel test afterwards and let us know if all this effort is worth it.

[asian_XL]

I have done sound deadending to my Mazda 5 and Model 3 by myself. The difference is very obvious even without having a decibel meter. I like to drive without music and the roads are horrible in Hong Kong, it cuts down all those wind and small noise penatrate the doors. Noise still come in from the windows, if the project can cut down 5db is already very successful and significant.

[supafamous]

You really gotta do a decibel test afterwards and let us know if all this effort is worth it.

I'll do some testing next week once I get it all wrapped up as I have readings from before on highway 1 at 100 and 120kph. I did take some readings today and in the city I'm down about 4-5 dbs at 60kph. I used to be around 63-64dbs on average roads and now I'm seeing 58-59dbs on similar roads. This is using an iPhone and the NOISH app (National Occupational Health and Safety).

The biggest diff is with cheaper cars, particularly those that don't have any sound insulation like Mazdas, Toyotas and Hondas. Much less impact with a Lexus or Buick. My RDX splits the difference - there's some sound deadening in place already and some semi-thick carpet but no acoustic glass or a plush ride with soft bushings.

[Badhobz]

im surprised the RDX doesnt have more sound deadening materials. its a luxury SUV.

The wife's RX is super quiet, like more quiet than my ES. Acoustic glass is amazing stuff.

[EvoFire]

im surprised the RDX doesnt have more sound deadening materials. its a luxury SUV.

The wife's RX is super quiet, like more quiet than my ES. Acoustic glass is amazing stuff.

They try to sell the sport in the SUV. The RX is really just a UV. Now if Acura would fix the dumb tranny.....

[asian_XL]

sound deadening is a fun project but make sure you don't buy stuff that might emit toxic substance. I spend hundreds of dollars to do tests, end up buying all 3M stuff that costed 10 times more than cheap china mats. You might search the news from China, Audi owners got blood cancer from toxic parts.

ref: https://www.reddit.com/r/worldnews/comments/b69x8z/more_than_3000_chinesemade_audi_owners_claim_to/

[supafamous]

im surprised the RDX doesnt have more sound deadening materials. its a luxury SUV.

The wife's RX is super quiet, like more quiet than my ES. Acoustic glass is amazing stuff.

The MDX is pretty quiet but the rest of the line up isn't much to write home about when it comes to sound insulation. The Integra had no additional sound insulation added compared to the Civic and I'm not sure if the RDX got much more than a CR-V or Pilot - the carpet doesn't feel any nicer but there is some deadener in the sheet metal and the wheel wells are carpeted. On the down side, the RDX pipes in fake engine sounds and its far too loud and can't be deactivated unless you also turn off noise cancellation (same fuse). My brother's CX-9 is definitely quieter than my RDX.

[GIZZ]

I just did a 3 hour garage shuffle, moved some scrap metal out. Wanting to get my truck out of the elements, I managed to to get it into the garage. I think I can fit one more, 2 if I want to leave a car in the air. I just need enough room around a couple cars to work on them.

[RiceIntegraRS]

My wife had alot of battery issues in her Rav4, i ended up just disabling the VVCS because her car just barely managed to start on our outing last night. The thought of her and my kids being stranded somewhere and asking for a jump didnt sit well with me(its happened a couple times already). I disabled it in my truck a couple years ago and ive never had an issue since.

[trollface]

https://i.imgur.com/Ug6qUSO.png

KEK, 1st time.

[GIZZ]

I stuck the rear camber arms back into my TSX, I messed these new snow tires up pretty good last year. So cold today, the perfect opportunity to park my hatchback outside and test sub zero cold starts.

http://youtu.be/Tq4o65C46lM

[EvoFire]

^ Are those mods supposed to make cold starts hell? I don't know much but I was under the impression idle can be tuned relatively well unless you have big cams.

[GIZZ]

Ya those are all a challenge, has long duration cams with more than typical overlap too. I bet most of the swapped and tuned local hondas with half the mods on a easy piggyback ecu will not cold start today. Forget about these shops attempting to write a tune from nothing on a standalone.

[radeonboy]

Drove out to Squamish for the first time in an EV - it feels nice not riding the brakes down the steeper sections of the highway.

https://i.imgur.com/0gYg84p.jpg

[Badhobz]

i recall from winters past, every time you wash your car it seems like a pointless endeavor as it'll get dirty as soon as you drive around the block. the salt, the grime, it just sticks to the car like glue. Even w/ ceramic coating, shit just looks horrible as soon as you drive it out

[roastpuff]

i recall from winters past, every time you wash your car it seems like a pointless endeavor as it'll get dirty as soon as you drive around the block. the salt, the grime, it just sticks to the car like glue. Even w/ ceramic coating, shit just looks horrible as soon as you drive it out

My ceramic coating has held up excellent, it takes a real effort to get it dirty. If it's bad, even a simple rinse does wonders as the grime/dirt just mostly washes off. Car wash takes me just 15 minutes and a single pass with the mitt in one of those self-serve bays.

Maybe you used a crap ceramic coating :pokerface:

[EvoFire]

The Gyeon ceramic coating on the X3 is 3 years old now and isn't as hydrophobic anymore, but stuff still doesn't stick on it that much. It got super dirty as I drove it in the snow a lot, but 5 mins at the wand wash and it's 80% clean. The new wheels that weren't coated on the other hand.....

[Badhobz]

I got graphene ceramic coating from Adam’s. I think I’ll still get dirty. I’ll try it when I’m back tomorrow

[roastpuff]

I got graphene ceramic coating from Adam’s. I think I’ll still get dirty. I’ll try it when I’m back tomorrow

You DIY'd or had a pro do it?

I had Cquartz CSL + EXOv3 topper applied by Autowerkes Exclusive.

[supafamous]

The Gyeon ceramic coating on the X3 is 3 years old now and isn't as hydrophobic anymore, but stuff still doesn't stick on it that much. It got super dirty as I drove it in the snow a lot, but 5 mins at the wand wash and it's 80% clean. The new wheels that weren't coated on the other hand.....

Coating my wheels in ceramic has been one of the best things I could spend money on (considering I'm fairly obsessive about having a clean car). Makes cleaning so easy.

I have Crystal Serum Ultra on m RDX and it's 2.5 years in and still holding really well - the very limited warranty says it's a 9 year coating but I'd be happy if I get 5 solid years out of it. 5 years and I'd call it money well spent considering how I'd otherwise be paying for an annual detail (or doing it myself).

[EvoFire]

Coating my wheels in ceramic has been one of the best things I could spend money on (considering I'm fairly obsessive about having a clean car). Makes cleaning so easy.

I have Crystal Serum Ultra on m RDX and it's 2.5 years in and still holding really well - the very limited warranty says it's a 9 year coating but I'd be happy if I get 5 solid years out of it. 5 years and I'd call it money well spent considering how I'd otherwise be paying for an annual detail (or doing it myself).

I had coatings on the original wheels, but I got used 20"s and they were curbed so I didn't do it. It's one of those "I'll get it refinished" eventually, and eventually never happens.

[Razor Ramon HG]

I used Gyeon Rim on my wheels. Did two coats on the entire face and barrel. Everything comes off easily.

Gave the remainder to my friend and he was able to do a coat on his wheels as well.

[Badhobz]

You DIY'd or had a pro do it?

I had Cquartz CSL + EXOv3 topper applied by Autowerkes Exclusive.

I did it myself but it’s pretty brainless shit. Especially on her white RX because I can’t even see any friggin high points even if I do screw it up. I laid it on thicccckk so I don’t know why it accumulates dirt and dust so easily. Especially on the rear tailgate…. I think it’s the way aero is handled on the RX. It seems to keep the front really really clean but the back sucks.

[JDMDreams]

Anyone use Avalon king? It's like super advertised on YouTube and seems quite affordable about $80 a bottle? I'm still poor here using Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic wax and turtle graphene flex wax

[Razor Ramon HG]

Haven't heard of that one. I use Gyeon Cancoat and it works well for me.

[supafamous]

Anyone use Avalon king? It's like super advertised on YouTube and seems quite affordable about $80 a bottle? I'm still poor here using Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic wax and turtle graphene flex wax

I've read solid things about it on the Reddit detailing forum but for DIY the top 2 suggestions always land on CQuartz or Crystal Serum Light b/c they're the easiest to apply and will still deliver 2-3 years of protection. Gyeon's equivalent product also gets good reviews.

[roastpuff]

I did it myself but it’s pretty brainless shit. Especially on her white RX because I can’t even see any friggin high points even if I do screw it up. I laid it on thicccckk so I don’t know why it accumulates dirt and dust so easily. Especially on the rear tailgate…. I think it’s the way aero is handled on the RX. It seems to keep the front really really clean but the back sucks.

Maybe it was laid on too thick so now it's "grabby"? Can also try a different topper to reduce the static/stickyness too.

And yeah, hatch aero will make the rear of the car dirty faster... just hatch life.

[impactX]

How much horsepower is this cardboard box worth?

https://i.imgur.com/yZkOedG.jpg

[GIZZ]

Need to do a bunch of driving this weekend. Not wanting any trouble driving my tsx, I decided to put winters on the old mdx. I had 255/55-18" pirelli winters on the oe wheels with a 2009 date stamp. The tires came with the mdx, 70% tread but separated tread. I mounted some 2014 date stamped 235/60-18" michelin x-ice with about 60% tread. Better tires, narrower, same overall height, should be good.

The tsx drives well in the snow with new michelin x-ice snow tires, but the side streets here are all still snow on top of ice so it takes a second to get moving. The mdx on winter tires is a rocketship in the snow, very impressive.

[fuzebox]

Soul Performance just released mufflers that are supposed to go with their headers and cats for the 997... Decent tone but not as loud as I wanted.

https://snowcrunch.com/soulcans.jpg

[impactX]

Bought a Milwaukee mid-torque impact wrench with 600lb-ft of torque to work on my car over Christmas. It has been able to bust open every bolt/nut on my car so far including rusted ones on the lower control arms. It saves so much time.

Replaced the front lower ball joints (with OEM), rear toe arms (with Hard Race/Megan Racing pillowball mount) and the Bilstein HD suspension (with Cusco Street Zero A 16kg/mm front and 11kg/mm rear). Installed the Cusco front member brace and Eibach front sway bar with new Moog end links. The rear end links are totally busted and I have removed the rear sway bar altogether for now until new rear end links arrive.

God, this car handles like a dream now. It officially turned 20 years old back in December.

Waiting for the 4-pot OEM Supra calipers to arrive. Will slowly install the oil filter relocation kit, Defi gauges, and Cusco econn2 for coilover adjustment. I have more parts lined up than spare time. :(

[underscore]

The weather was nice enough to steal the garage from my wife for a couple days so I swapped out the alternator for a reman'd Denso for a Solara. They have the same rated output but the Solara has the slightly newer style plug so I made up an adapter harness and now in a pinch I can use an alt from pretty much any mid-80's to early 00's Toyota car. Even when it was working the old alt would fluctuate voltage a lot while driving, swinging from 13-15V, so far the new one seems to be rock solid at 14.6V all the time so it seems like it was a good call to swap it even if the old was wasn't totally dead. I also changed the yellow tint on the foglights to let a little more light through and reseal one that was getting water in it.

https://i.imgur.com/yFpNweu.jpg

And then because I'm basically a 14 year old with bills I installed this.

https://i.imgur.com/iLNjtEl.gif

I also found a couple of these while doing some cleaning so I figured I'd add a touch of class to the roof basket.

https://i.imgur.com/CovhFzK.jpg

[Badhobz]

I havent wrenched on my own cars since 2005/2006. This is the first time in like almost 20 years that i broke out some tools and decided to do my own oil changes.
I bought some kirkland 0w20 and 5w30, some toyota oil filters/crush washers from the dealership and went to town.

I realized that the dealership doesnt give a flying shit about the torque specs on the oil filter. it was on so tight i needed a breaker bar just to take it off. Pretty sure they used an impact drill to put it on or something.

I torqued it to manual specs of 18.5lbs and changed all the o rings. Felt good knowing the job was done right and the oil level was perfect.

https://i.postimg.cc/m2Yhq3hs/IMG-6133.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/BnQ3Z2ZH/IMG-6248.jpg

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-maintenance-ramps-13-000-lbs-0091536p.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAuOieBhAIEiwAgjCvcuW_Md rFtulBa3_QNnobdYbNngOuq4y9goIrNxDNRdc-0S61cL9X9hoCoBkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=606

These crappy tire ramps are on sale. i picked them up and they are working pretty good.

[Bender Unit]

Your families are loyal to Lexus brands :lol

ES, RX, SC, LC

[Badhobz]

yes ive converted them all to lexus. my pops used to buy nissans cuz they were cheap, my in laws all had german cars and now they are all driving toyotas. I even drank some of my own koolaid and gave up my ultra reliable italian car and took on this ratrolla instead.

[hud 91gt]

I’m actually curious how one torques an oil filter? Do some have wrench attachments? I’ve always done the finger tight then a 1/4ish turn more. Whatever feels right, don’t forget to lube the o ring.

[SSM_DC5]

Oil filter socket

[Badhobz]

I’m actually curious how one torques an oil filter? Do some have wrench attachments? I’ve always done the finger tight then a 1/4ish turn more. Whatever feels right, don’t forget to lube the o ring.

I picked this up from crappy tire for 11 bucks.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-toyota-lexus-cap-wrench-6-cut-64-mm-0283579p.html?loc=plp
https://media-www.canadiantire.ca/product/automotive/auto-maintenance/oil-change-and-fuel-accessories/0283579/motomaster-64mm-6-cuts-toyota-lexus-cap-wrench-83a7540b-22d0-494d-ab68-f1d0b49fac1c.png?imdensity=1&imwidth=2100

[supafamous]

I’m actually curious how one torques an oil filter? Do some have wrench attachments? I’ve always done the finger tight then a 1/4ish turn more. Whatever feels right, don’t forget to lube the o ring.

I hand tighten. I have delicate desk job hands so I'll never over tighten.

[hud 91gt]

Haha I actually have one of those. But just to loosen the previous man’s gorilla grip mess

[trollface]

I hand tighten it.

To undo it, screwdriver and a hammer. Stake it

[Badhobz]

So as soon as i start wrenching on my own cars guess what fails.

THE BMW OF COURSE!

the only German car left in our families and it fails in spectacular BMW fashion today. The 128i has been pretty reliable all these years, just minor things like (take a deep breath), timing chain guides, vanos, window actuator(s), valve cover gasket, leaky PS steering reservoir, windshield reservoir leaking and uhh i think thats about it. It always costs a few thousand each time at the dealership.

Today her dad drove it and it started violently shaking and check engine light was on. I had BCAA tow it to the dealership in richmond where i went to scan the codes just now.

P0303 popped up, engine misfire cylinder 3 and also these O2 sensors failed

MID:$02 TID:$07
Minimum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 1.09934V Min: 0V
Test result value: 4.99846V
FAIL

MID:$06 TID:$07
Minimum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 2
Max: 1.09934V Min: 0V
Test result value: 4.99846V
FAIL

Im thinking the either the spark plugs or coils went bad. Didnt have any tools with me so i didnt bother doing a coilswap/plug swap but should i replace all of them at the same time or just replace the failed one?

Might also be the fuel injectors, in which case is it wise to replace them all or just replace the bad ones?

[BIC_BAWS]

You can test coilpacks by unplugging each individual one and seeing which one makes the car runs worse. I'd imagine N52 coilpacks are pretty much a dime a dozen and pretty easy to track down.

O2 sensors aren't exactly necessary post cat.

I didn't realize this until not owning a BMW for an extended period of time, but the "minor" things that seem minor to me, are abnormal for everyone else LOL.

[westopher]

If it's a misfire on cyl 3, switch the 3 coil with another coil, clear code, start car, see if misfire moved. If it did it's just the coil, if not start moving along the line. Plugs, injectors, vacuum leaks, etc.

[Badhobz]

Dealer called me this morning. Gonna do all 6 plugs and coils since it’s never been done on the car before (it’s a 2008). Less than 1900 bucks with the bmw owners advantage (for bmws over 10 years old they give a discount).

Not too bad compared to my maserati but still bad compared to the rest of the Lexus fleet who’s never heard of doing coils.

[yray]

misfires... lol all my land rovers run 7 cylinders out of 8 at all times

[sonick]

Dealer called me this morning. Gonna do all 6 plugs and coils since it’s never been done on the car before (it’s a 2008). Less than 1900 bucks with the bmw owners advantage (for bmws over 10 years old they give a discount).

Not too bad compared to my maserati but still bad compared to the rest of the Lexus fleet who’s never heard of doing coils.

I've had two coils go bad on my Rav4 V6. Fortunately they were on the exposed side of the V6 and so I was able to replace it easily myself.

But jesus $1900 is steep for coils and plugs. It's an I6 so I would imagine the coils and plugs are all fairly accessible? Or is it more complicated?

I was surprised at how convoluted/expensive replacing the valve cover gasket on the N52 is, which mine is seeping oil. Too used to the M20 on my E30 or the Miata, where its just a metal cover you pop on and off.

Dreading the day I need it done on my 128i.

[Badhobz]

dats sexy yray!

But jesus $1900 is steep for coils and plugs. It's an I6 so I would imagine the coils and plugs are all fairly accessible? Or is it more complicated?

I was surprised at how convoluted/expensive replacing the valve cover gasket on the N52 is, which mine is seeping oil. Too used to the M20 on my E30 or the Miata, where its just a metal cover you pop on and off.

Dreading the day I need it done on my 128i.

it doesnt look too too bad, but they only charging me 1.4h of labor to do this job and the coils themselves are kinda expensive at 190 bucks a pop x6 and plugs are 32 bucks x6.
So i guess i could have done it myself but really only saving the labor cost as i dont know where the heck to buy the coils other than from autowest.

facckkk amazon has it for 194 bucks for 6. :rukidding:

https://www.amazon.ca/Ignition-Coil-Bosch-04470-94937/dp/B00IRIGF0Q/ref=sr_1_10?crid=26VDO2V0RHMTY&keywords=bmw+128i+ignition&qid=1675450329&s=automotive&sprefix=bmw+128i+ignition+%2Cautomotive%2C128&sr=1-10

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDgUgK1WDco

[roastpuff]

RockAuto or hell even GermanParts.ca

Coils are easy on a German car, especially a I-6.

[radeonboy]

After watching a few 3D modeling tutorials on YouTube, I designed a simple camera mount to prevent the sunshade from hitting the rear dashcam when it goes up. It's pretty basic and inelegant, but it's my first design so I'm pretty proud of it.

I'll probably improve on its design to minimize the gap between the mount and the headliner, but I'll let it sit for a month or two first to before tackling it again.

https://i.imgur.com/5QCYUju.jpg

Link to the shade in action:
https://imgur.com/dXPkif2

[68style]

It doesnt look too too bad, but they only charging me 1.4h of labor to do this job and the coils themselves are kinda expensive at 190 bucks a pop x6 and plugs are 32 bucks x6.
So i guess i could have done it myself but really only saving the labor cost as i dont know where the heck to buy the coils other than from autowest.

facckkk amazon has it for 194 bucks for 6. :rukidding:

Stealership being stealers again

[Badhobz]

Ugh… the car only has 68,000kms on it and it needs plugs and coils. typical bmw.

Now I feel ripped off. Shouldn’t have checked the coil prices online. They selling a whole kit (plugs, coils, x6) for 300 something dollars. Paying 1700 now :pokerface:

[trollface]

I found buying quality coil packs to be an excellent "investment".

[SkunkWorks]

Dude... Changing coils and plugs on a N52 took me 30 minutes.

Get either Delphi or Bosch from Rockauto or FCP and DIY. But sounds like it's already done now.

[Badhobz]

I just picked it up. 1570 after all said and done. Damn my laziness. Could have done the job for roughly 500-600 bucks myself. :failed:

[westopher]

Lol was the labour $1000 an hour?

[Badhobz]

it is now :okay::okay:

[trollface]

What kind of BMW?

[Badhobz]

A shitty kind... the ones that chinese girls dont want to cry in the back seat of.... although i actually really love it. its the car i help the wife buy back in 2008 when we first met. Its actually the car that started our relationship. Also it drives super nice due to the short wheelbase and tight ass suspension. That N52 engine is friggin tower of power. love how it performs.. hates how harsh it rides.

https://i.postimg.cc/c1XKdSFT/IMG-9636.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/q7Dk9JJC/23f2b65f-0137-4c70-8e9e-7635c883fa89.jpg
Travesty how little km's is on the car. Id take it autocrossing/racing if i wasnt such a fat lazy old fuck.

[punkwax]

We just jelly we don’t have F U money like mad(stacks)hobz.

I have never and will never bring a car into a stealership for repairs unless it’s under warranty. I like to research and find higher quality aftermarket parts compared to OEM whenever possible and usually save money in doing so. More performance and/or longevity for less money is the most Captain obvious choice ever IMO.

[Badhobz]

to be honest i didnt wanna bring her in, but its her dads car now (along with the sc430 i got him... why the fuck does the old man have such epic cars while we all drive bread shaped transportation objects?) and he paid for this repair. Saving him money wouldnt really mean to much as he'll just blow it on OLD CHINESE MAN STUFF... like mahjong, hotpot, and "massages" (my wife swears his massages are on the up and up..... sure it is). Or give it to his grandson, my nephew. FUCK THAT LITTLE TURD.

[sonick]

A shitty kind... the ones that chinese girls dont want to cry in the back seat of.... although i actually really love it. its the car i help the wife buy back in 2008 when we first met. Its actually the car that started our relationship. Also it drives super nice due to the short wheelbase and tight ass suspension. That N52 engine is friggin tower of power. love how it performs.. hates how harsh it rides.

Another 128i fan and owner here and agree with much of what you said. Coming from cars mostly from the 90s and prior I find it rides very well. Does yours have the sports package with the sport seats and suspension?

I came from two Miatas and an E30 and I just love how this drives. I fell in love with the smooth inline 6 power band, and the responsive yet confident and flat handling. I don't miss my Miatas at all with my e82, and it's amazing how close it feels to the e30. It's like the same car just grown up by 20 years.

If yours is manual and with sport package let me know I might be interested to get a lower mileage one to drive it longer. Plus I know it's had good money thrown at its maintenance :troll:

Here's mine:

https://i.imgur.com/tWVUrh8.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/twpbkTE.jpeg

[Badhobz]

It’s got sports package, sports seats, Bluetooth, HIDs, and sunroof. Also it’s an automatic cuz it was built for ze wife.

Its probably the best driving car in the family’s entire fleet. Nothing else comes close. When the old man is finally done with it, I’m seriously thinking of taking it back. We probably don’t have the space for another car but it has sentimental value too.

The 1 series is such an underrated car. I don’t know why it’s not a collectable like the e30 is. It really is a modern day e30 like you said.

[trollface]

I'd like a 128

[JoshuaWong]

Not to mention the N52 will run forever too,

Throw in a 3 stage manifold + automatic final drive swap + tune + header and you've got the smoothest 280hp ever :fullofwin:

i love these 128i/328i, had a 6MT for work and now a 6AT for daily/winter. Drove both up and over 200k km

It’s got sports package, sports seats, Bluetooth, HIDs, and sunroof. Also it’s an automatic cuz it was built for ze wife.

Its probably the best driving car in the family’s entire fleet. Nothing else comes close. When the old man is finally done with it, I’m seriously thinking of taking it back. We probably don’t have the space for another car but it has sentimental value too.

The 1 series is such an underrated car. I don’t know why it’s not a collectable like the e30 is. It really is a modern day e30 like you said.

[westopher]

It’s got sports package, sports seats, Bluetooth, HIDs, and sunroof. Also it’s an automatic cuz it was built for ze wife.

Its probably the best driving car in the family’s entire fleet. Nothing else comes close. When the old man is finally done with it, I’m seriously thinking of taking it back. We probably don’t have the space for another car but it has sentimental value too.

The 1 series is such an underrated car. I don’t know why it’s not a collectable like the e30 is. It really is a modern day e30 like you said.
It's not old enough to have the nostalgia factor, but it will someday. I'd say it's probably the last of the non M BMWs to actually provide a great driving experience. Back in the day you didn't need to have an M car to actually enjoy it.

[Great68]

I finally started receiving some parts, and started off tackling my heater box assembly and controls so I can get that out of the way.

Started off with fixing the heater control cables, the 55 year old plastic bracket was broken leaving one of the cables dangling and non-functional, so I fabbed a new bracket out of metal to reinforce the plastic, works good now:

https://i.imgur.com/rx2rVdv.jpg

Then I sandblasted all the heater control parts, flaps etc, gave everything a coat of paint:

https://i.imgur.com/aPNprFt.jpg

Installed the new sealing foam kit, new extended tube aluminium heater core, re-assembled:

https://i.imgur.com/XC3GZb2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NKtWD4V.jpg


Unfortunately when I installed the original blower wheel on the new motor it was way too wobbly and out of true for my liking, so I ordered a new one and that'll be here in a few weeks.

[ilovebacon]

Another 128i fan and owner here and agree with much of what you said. Coming from cars mostly from the 90s and prior I find it rides very well. Does yours have the sports package with the sport seats and suspension?

I came from two Miatas and an E30 and I just love how this drives. I fell in love with the smooth inline 6 power band, and the responsive yet confident and flat handling. I don't miss my Miatas at all with my e82, and it's amazing how close it feels to the e30. It's like the same car just grown up by 20 years.

If yours is manual and with sport package let me know I might be interested to get a lower mileage one to drive it longer. Plus I know it's had good money thrown at its maintenance :troll:

Here's mine:

https://i.imgur.com/tWVUrh8.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/twpbkTE.jpeg

Did you like that bike rack? I have a coupe too and I am worried that the bike will scratch the trunk.

[trollface]

You can always install a hitch that hangs real low

[Badhobz]

is this true?

https://www.crossdrilledrotors.ca/blog/the-real-truth-about-warped-brake-rotors

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clublexus.com-vbulletin/1300x852/tinygrab_screen_shot_2_7_23_4_41_06_pm_1d4eb7b63d0 47969a473687ea969c0a956a65cac.png

[EvoFire]

^ Yes. A lot of time it's deposits. Heat still plays a part though. It's a problem more common I find in older cars as brakes were typically undersized as the components are tasked to dissipating the same amount of heat but with less material. Material science has come a long way as well.

[mb_]

is this true?

https://www.crossdrilledrotors.ca/blog/the-real-truth-about-warped-brake-rotors

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clublexus.com-vbulletin/1300x852/tinygrab_screen_shot_2_7_23_4_41_06_pm_1d4eb7b63d0 47969a473687ea969c0a956a65cac.png

This can happen and more likely to if the pads aren't bedded in properly with a new rotor/machined rotor

[yray]

just bed them till they glow bright red... the pads will melt to mold in with the rotors :troll:

[sonick]

Did you like that bike rack? I have a coupe too and I am worried that the bike will scratch the trunk.

It's good for what it is. I put ppf on the contact points and use bungee cords to keep it off of the bumper.

If you are interested in getting one lmk I am looking to sell it as I bought a hitch and a hitch bike rack for my RAV4 and so probably will not use the rack for my BMW much.

[twitchyzero]

what's an affodrable hitch rack that clears a swing out door?

[sonick]

what's an affodrable hitch rack that clears a swing out door?

I have a Sportback Crest 2 that clears the side swing rear door of my RAV4 when you fold down the bars. Of course doesn't work when a bike is mounted.

https://canada.sportrack.com/product/crest-2-2/

[hud 91gt]

I’ve got the same one. Works and it’s cheap (Rav as well).

[roastpuff]

Big fan of Kuat but it's pricey. Also there's the swing-out Thule/Yakima/RockyMountain hitch racks that should work with the RAV4 swing out door - double check the swing direction though.

https://www.roofrackstore.com.au/images/RockyMounts-BackStage-7.jpg

[TOS'd]

I have a Thule rack which clears my rear hatch door without needing to move it, but it also can tilt away from the hatch for extra clearance (tested it and it works with bikes on it, although the product advises not to).

Clearance also depends on how your hitch is mounted and how long the horizontal piece of the rack is that inserts into the hitch.

They also have side swinging racks which could swing out the same direction as your rear side swing door, although typically more expensive. (EDIT: re roastpuff's post above while I was typing this one out.)

Don't forget the security component of the rack, if you always plan to go from A to B with no stops and no potential for someone to steal them off your car when you grab food or coffee.

I did a lot of research before selecting mine and have implemented additional security measures, although nothing is 100% secure if they really want to steal your bikes.

[The_AK]

Havent posted in forever, I've working on creating my own vented "Ventech Style" M sport bumper and forged carbon rear valence. The work-in-progress so far. Valence needs to be sanded down smooth once again. Mock-up how the two are coming together so far:

https://scontent.fyvr4-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/329152515_1874998132867209_3322080567270545597_n.j pg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=0debeb&_nc_ohc=HE-8IM27rZAAX_O-ak7&_nc_ht=scontent.fyvr4-1.fna&oh=00_AfCCikNYD6ihn-4sm0YPJ06wF2J2DrT-ArL8CplOWzMosg&oe=63EDF122

[trollface]

Nice job

[Badhobz]

so im confused as hell. when my ratrolla is cold, i check the dip stick and it shows the oil is about 1/2 inch over the full mark. So i bought an oil extractor and removed 1/2 a litre and it was still showing over the full mark...

Then my neighbor told me to start it for a few second and let the system pressurize. Once i did that, and checked it again (with the oil flowing through the system) it shows 1/2 a litre under the min mark.

i dont get it.

According to the manual im suppose to check it after warming it up a few minutes and then let it drain back down into the sump. I did it, now its showing full after i put the oil i sucked out of it back in minus maybe 0.15L
https://i.postimg.cc/qBcQnL12/IMG-9860.jpg

this damn oil extractor is bullshit too. little drops of oil all over the place when its suppose to be "cleaner" than using the drain plug. my ass! those little plastic tubs flying around everywhere and no good place to store them. ended up duct taping them to a ladder to let them drain into my plastic oil pan.

[EvoFire]

Full cold oil check is wrong. My rule of thumb is drive it around till it's warm, park it on level ground turn if off and check in 5 mins.

So my rule of thumb is probably closest to the Lexus manual. I drive a BMW though, what's a dipstick? looool

[SSM_DC5]

When it's cold, the oil has had a lot of time to drain back into the oil pan. So when you started it up, 0.5L got pumped out of the oil pan and up into the engine. When you checked it warm, 0.5L is still sitting up in the engine. Hope that example made sense.

[The_AK]

Nice job

some of you guys following me on IG (@axel.koast) have seen the full ordeal so far but I'm also uploading progress of this on youtube too should anyone in the future want to take this on as well. It's all shorts under this playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLuNXaESSRqgGM7nNPq1Z0T0lLmrEIlk1O

[trollface]

I want to make a carbon lip for my Datsun.

[The_AK]

I want to make a carbon lip for my Datsun.

Like from scratch? It's an involving process, even moreso than skinning since you effectively need to make a mold. I did just a buy a fibreglass GTS/GT4 style lip which I'll be customizing further and skinning in this material again.

[yray]

]

this damn oil extractor is bullshit too.

dude, get a electric oil pump from amazon

[Badhobz]

its the same bullshit. the problem isnt the pumping, its the lousy plastic hoses afterwards. they go flailing around and drip motor oil everywhere. i ended up putting them in a plastic bag so they dont make a mess, but its hella annoying.

[roastpuff]

Why you let them flail around? Wipe the hose with a paper towel, wrap the end with the same paper towel and then saran wrap, use a rubber band to keep it all in place. It is 100% easier than using an oil pan.

EDIT: Also, you're supposed to do it when the oil is warm, it makes it flow WAY easier and leaves less residue in the tube/hose.

[68style]

badhobz treats oil pump hoses the same way he treats badhobzjr at a urinal

more than 2 shakes you're playing with it bro! :hotbaby:

[Badhobz]

nah bro, oil pan is way easier. this pump a dump dump isnt my cup-a-oil

I didnt get a single drop of oil anywhere using that oil pan. this extractor thing i got a few drops on my strut tower, a drop on my headlights, and a few drops on the garage floor while trying to pull the lousy tubes in and out.

Pissing me off, i hate making a mess.

[roastpuff]

Stop doing the helicopter with it ffs

[yray]

its the same bullshit. the problem isnt the pumping, its the lousy plastic hoses afterwards. they go flailing around and drip motor oil everywhere. i ended up putting them in a plastic bag so they dont make a mess, but its hella annoying.

TOUCH THE MOTOR OIL, BE A MAN

[Dragon-88]

On my wrx I just have a Oil Drain valve installed.. Just throw a pan under, open the valve and let her rip.

https://www.mycarworx.com/Images_CC_2/Fumoto-Valve-Photo_650.jpg

[bcrdukes]

Are oil changes on your LC not included or did you opt out of the option?

[68style]

It's complicated dukes... you gotta call Lexus and verify they have a courtesy driver that's willing to take you to Garden City & Alderbridge to kill an hour before picking you up after you've had your oil change.

[yray]

It's complicated dukes... you gotta call Lexus and verify they have a courtesy driver that's willing to take you to Garden City & Alderbridge to kill an hour before picking you up after you've had your oil change.

:suspicious::suspicious:

[Badhobz]

they only include the first 3 services (first one is just a check, 2nd and 3rd is a service). The rest you gotta PAY!!!!!!!!

i paid outta pocket to get the oil changed at 1000km (just for extra piece of mind) and they overfilled it. Quite common on the LC forums as apparently they just fill w/ a computer setting. my dude obviously didnt check the dipstick afterwards.

Shes at 3600km right now, so ill get them to change it at 9000km afterwards.

[bcrdukes]

Do you expect to drive 9000KM in a year? If not, should it not be that your oil change interval be annual or mileage based, whichever comes first?

[Badhobz]

Dats tru. I’ll get them to change it this summer. It won’t have 9k before the end of this year at the rate I’m driving it. It’s just a weekend cruiser.

[Badhobz]

:suspicious::suspicious:

Swan lake bro. Or bobo massage :concentrate:

[roastpuff]

Swan lake bro. Or bobo massage :concentrate:

Smart Spa is where it’s at

[yray]

Swan lake bro. Or bobo massage :concentrate:
:heckno:

[dark0821]

Keeping up with tradition, plus... the 3 has to fit in with the rest of the fleet.

Also... because it is still free from old work perk I guess =)

https://i.imgur.com/paf5QD5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/712v8Tu.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/On8DfRh.jpg

[68style]

Pikachu is fitting for an EV!

Charmander looks like he's either terrified or ready to give services tho :)

[trollface]

You have the world's biggest No Solicitation sign, holy shit.

Must be a HUGE problem.

[EvoFire]

Keeping up with tradition, plus... the 3 has to fit in with the rest of the fleet.

Also... because it is still free from old work perk I guess =)

https://i.imgur.com/paf5QD5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/712v8Tu.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/On8DfRh.jpg

I want some of those stickers

[dark0821]

^ shoot me a PM, I will point you in the right direction =)

[The_AK]

Guess I'll post an update. Finished with the bumper vents in the M Sport bumper + forged carbon skinning. Installed it today at my friend's shop. Will post more photos once I get around to it

https://i.imgur.com/OAX6FO1.jpg

[bcrdukes]

Neat workshop

[trollface]

Indy 500s

[Badhobz]

I'll do some testing next week once I get it all wrapped up as I have readings from before on highway 1 at 100 and 120kph. I did take some readings today and in the city I'm down about 4-5 dbs at 60kph. I used to be around 63-64dbs on average roads and now I'm seeing 58-59dbs on similar roads. This is using an iPhone and the NOISH app (National Occupational Health and Safety).

The biggest diff is with cheaper cars, particularly those that don't have any sound insulation like Mazdas, Toyotas and Hondas. Much less impact with a Lexus or Buick. My RDX splits the difference - there's some sound deadening in place already and some semi-thick carpet but no acoustic glass or a plush ride with soft bushings.

Supa, did all this sound deadening work out ? We just did a mild road trip on the i5 and that highway is utter crap. Annoyingly loud even in the RX which is super quiet on our normal, paved highways. Running on the cement is just loud and obnoxious.

[AstulzerRZD]

Supa, did all this sound deadening work out ? We just did a mild road trip on the i5 and that highway is utter crap. Annoyingly loud even in the RX which is super quiet on our normal, paved highways. Running on the cement is just loud and obnoxious.

Not sure what it is with Japanese cars on concrete highways.

I5 at 80mph also makes CR-V sound like your windows aren't fully up.

Camry needed noise cancelling headphones to get normal sound (not to mention the side-view mirrors shake/vibrate above 115).

Mustang / Challenger / Charger / other generic higher tier domestics and Germans seem to do just fine though.

[EvoFire]

It's a combination of tire noise on the rough concrete, and the unevenness of the surface causing a lot of motion in the suspension and chassis. The moment you cross the border from US to Canada it's bliss from how quiet Canadian highways are.

[Badhobz]

For sure. That’s why it’s completely fine driving in Canada but a real pain doing it in the states. Wondering if getting somebody to spray the underside in that noise isolating foam would help.

[supafamous]

Supa, did all this sound deadening work out ? We just did a mild road trip on the i5 and that highway is utter crap. Annoyingly loud even in the RX which is super quiet on our normal, paved highways. Running on the cement is just loud and obnoxious.

Haven't gotten around to finishing it up (one more door and part of the trunk, plus some touch up). The improvement is definitely there - music is clearer and I can turn it up more than I used to without it being annoying and on smoother surfaces it's very quiet now (noticeably - like I'll actually notice how quiet it is)

On coarse surfaces like I-5 it's not as noticeable - I'd say it almost feels like it didn't help. On coarse surfaces you're reducing the sound from 80db to 75db (still loud) which isn't as much as going from 65db to 60db. 5db is still 5 db though - that's a meaningful difference.

I think the RX has much better sound insulation than the RDX so I'm not sure it'd make much of a difference for you - maybe the doors would help (and doors are super easy to do) but I'm guessing the floor is much better insulated than the RDX (the RDX's floor is basically the same as a CR-V).

[68style]

For sure. That’s why it’s completely fine driving in Canada but a real pain doing it in the states. Wondering if getting somebody to spray the underside in that noise isolating foam would help.

Why do you want it to be quieter inside, just makes it easier to hear tiny satellite balloon wife.

Road noise drown her out so good.

[Badhobz]

You’re my best friend now. I declared it on the internet so it must be true.

Conversation on Saturday while we drive down to Fort Cassey in WA.

Her: forts are boring.
Me: you’re boring.
Her: I’m hungry.
Me: you’re hungry.
Her: shoudjnt have brought the dogs
Me: shouldn’t have brought you

[The_AK]

Neat workshop

Its got character

Indy 500s

Indeed they are. They've been good for me... so far.

https://i.imgur.com/DlGCF7h.jpg

[Matsuda]

Got my new Verus Engineering rear diffuser installed today. Will improve airflow when I go to T&T

https://scontent.fyvr4-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/332250775_2786835044785255_2939501298413126048_n.j pg?_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5cd70e&_nc_ohc=tHQsDtDsJc4AX97XKz0&_nc_ht=scontent.fyvr4-1.fna&oh=00_AfCtl9Geywv296vM7FRB0sf50ckeNoKRkRKa4OIoYjY7 FQ&oe=63FB9DA7

https://scontent.fyvr4-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/332255057_710646014038188_4008543818351424029_n.jp g?_nc_cat=110&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5cd70e&_nc_ohc=t5EXRJSJVX8AX9ZVgzJ&_nc_ht=scontent.fyvr4-1.fna&oh=00_AfDEspFWPh0sBUgrZ9PhnZ1c5nPqfuFVVlUEGLzR7LRD VA&oe=63FA9021

[trollface]

I want one

[Badhobz]

^kelowna had one.

[trollface]

=/

[AstulzerRZD]

For sure. That’s why it’s completely fine driving in Canada but a real pain doing it in the states. Wondering if getting somebody to spray the underside in that noise isolating foam would help.

Probably wouldn't.
Need to add mass to the floorpan - usually via mass loaded vinyl.

As someone who moved to Seattle area for a couple years, even soft top Mustangs and Beetles are just fine on the concrete highway.
It's just Japanese cars that aren't particularly _US highway grade_.
By that, I mean "uphill on 80mph concrete highway, short merge areas, 4+ hour drives without breaking a sweat".

It all makes sense after visiting Japan where even the taxi drivers don't leave the "eco" range of the Prius meter, their behaviour/habit/design doesn't really have it in mind.

Honda/Toyota in particular (some Acura/Lexus models as well) skimp on the noise insulation and make me want to wear noise cancelling headphones.
All generations Toyota Camry/Prius, Honda CR-V are particularly bad. New gen RAV4 Prime seems better.

A lot of the Japanese cars have twitchy steering, hella torque steer & crazy engine noise trying to keep up with 80mph on hills / chaotic traffic patterns too.
Nissan Maxima is wayyyy worse on all of these counts compared to base V6 Dodge Charger.
I-5 Union Street from pike place to HOV lange merge even at rush hour is full throttle/redline to squeak into gaps across 5 lanes.

[Badhobz]

I drove my Vw sportwagen on the i5 a lot and it was equally miserable. Close to Seattle a lot of the stretch is paved. But when it’s concrete…. Yikes.

[320icar]

I5 is miserable in every car. Don’t waste your time and money trying to fix that

[68style]

I found I-5 palatable in my 95 Lexus LS400 that I had! It was quite content :)

[Matsuda]

I drove my Vw sportwagen on the i5 a lot and it was equally miserable. Close to Seattle a lot of the stretch is paved. But when it’s concrete…. Yikes.

Yeah I’m kind of used to driving in the US. I’m doing a road trip next month to Portland with the fam…

[BIC_BAWS]

The i5 was bearable in the E46 330ci, even with 95a poly bushings, lack of window gaskets, and mostly gutted. In the FK8, it makes me want to shoot myself. I've never cared about NVH, but in this car, I realize why it's such an important measurement - cause this car doesn't try to meet any form of NVH reduction whatsoever.

50K japanese junk. I swear the shitbox e36 m3 would probably do better.

[supafamous]

I5 is miserable in every car. Don’t waste your time and money trying to fix that

Let's rent a Rolls and find out for sure.

[Traum]

Come on, guys? I've driven down the I5 to the Ridge in my Miata with metal engine mounts and 200TW tires. I had to wear earplugs, but it was fine~

Gosh we're all getting soft LOL~

[AstulzerRZD]

Here are some cars I have personal experience with on the i5 concerete (other than teh soft top Beetle/Mustangs.
My daily was an S2000 on RE71R, my ear drums are ok for now

I drove my Vw sportwagen on the i5 a lot and it was equally miserable. Close to Seattle a lot of the stretch is paved. But when it’s concrete…. Yikes.

I find the A5 Sportback and especially the A4 Allroad meaningfully worse than the A4 Sedan cuz of the open rear...
especially if it's the prestige trim sedan with the dual pane laminated glass (63dB at 70mph exact same as W222 Maybach in C&D testing, quieter than LS600h & similar to Cullinan, Phantom, S8 and I-Pace at 62dB)

Mk7.5 Golf R got 72dB (roughly 2X louder vs the A4 Prestige). FWIW I've road tripped mk7 8 hours in a day in Ontario and it was fine imo.
FK8 gets 76dB (roughly 3X louder than the A4P).

Let's rent a Rolls and find out for sure.

No need, base trim Dodge Charger on the Michelin Energy Savers will do fine (68dB at 70mph) for 6 hours drive.... even in Oregon where the concrete's even worse
Dual pane THICC laminated front glass standard, seats benchmarked Lexus LS430. Ironically, acoustic glass is an option for current E class, not available on the C.

Base RAM1500 does 65dB.

[twitchyzero]

ive done some long drives like almost 1600km in one day that to most people would be torture

the most important thing is seat, it has to fit you well

almost everything else like tire noise and the odd rattle can be rectified by earplugs

adaptive cruise would also go very far

[Badhobz]

We are planning on going to see some central Washington state sights like dry falls, Hanford reach, Ellenburg, etc. the geography looks almost Utah like so I’m totally stoked on exploring it.

I’m hoping these highways aren’t as noisy and hopefully paved. Otherwise 7+h drive to Spokane is gonna suck.

[AstulzerRZD]

We are planning on going to see some central Washington state sights like dry falls, Hanford reach, Ellenburg, etc. the geography looks almost Utah like so I’m totally stoked on exploring it.

I’m hoping these highways aren’t as noisy and hopefully paved. Otherwise 7+h drive to Spokane is gonna suck.

Ancient Lakes a great hike too.
Be careful of the cops out there; esp around Ellensburg.
Soon as you start going downhill over the pass is when the cops start ticketing

[H.Specter]

Installed tint!

https://i.ibb.co/dG8ktMQ/PXL-20230224-002630186.jpg (https://ibb.co/ZWqcSXh)

[Badhobz]

Where ? It’s so light you can barely see it.

[GIZZ]

-4 degree cold start tune touch up.

[Acura604]

OOOF back to winter mode... but this works out for me... i have wheel/tire protection package and one of the 20s has a mild curb mark.. gonna get it repaired while its off the car.


https://i.imgur.com/Z10neH7.jpg

[trollface]

lol

[H.Specter]

Where ? It’s so light you can barely see it.

It does look light from the pictures...it's front 50% rear 20%. Going to have to take a closer look the next time the sun is out.

[yray]

OOOF back to winter mode... but this works out for me... i have wheel/tire protection package and one of the 20s has a mild curb mark.. gonna get it repaired while its off the car.


how are the threads holding up on the bolts.

[immorality]

Installed this tunnel brace in the MR2!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52716440613_1896618f3e_h.jpg

[underscore]

I've been fighting with the ride height of my car for a while now and I'm slowly losing my mind (and wallet). When I first put in the stock springs with new struts/mounts/isolators and 1" spacers in 2019? or so the car sat level and it was great. After doing a TSD event the rear hunkered down and won't go back up. I've emptied the trunk and reset the control arms a couple times and it still sits only 0.5" higher than stock. While resetting the arms again I had the sway bar unbolted and when I went to put it back I noticed that it doesn't line up evenly, I have to connect one end and then jack up the hub on the other side to get the bolt in. No clue what's going on there, my hope is just that the garage floor isn't level enough or something.

To try and at least get the car to sit level I took a spacer out of the fronts so they now have a 0.5" spacer. Reset the control arms, settled the suspension, etc and the drivers front still sits at 1" above stock and more concerningly the passenger front is 1.5" above stock. I've measured it front a couple different points in case the fenders are wonky and it's the same, 0.5" higher on the passenger side. I don't think the springs are side specific but I pulled both struts out (they look and measure identical) and swapped the whole assemblies so now the drivers front strut is on the passenger front side of the car and vice versa and the passenger side is still 0.5" higher. I slapped them in loosely so the swaybar is disconnected at both ends, the control arm nuts are loose, etc. As far as I can tell the only things that control ride height are the strut assembly, the strut tower, and the knuckle so again I have no clue what's going on, if any of you guys do please share. It's just a mac strut so not exactly fancy.

At this point I've half given up and decided to just replace the front strut mounts because the drivers side has gotten very sloppy, ditch the front spacers and swap the springs side to side because why not. I stripped the front strut assemblies apart and found that the passenger damper seems to be bad, it's not totally blown but it's way easier to compress than the drivers side, it comes up way more slowly and it doesn't extend fully on its own. I also found the bearing in that mount has a bit of play too, not as bad as the drivers side but I'm glad I ordered 2 new ones. I'm not very impressed with KYB at the moment, that's 1 bad damper and 2 bad mounts in under 10k km. At $50/piece that's not good value either. I should probably pull the rears too and see if they're bad as well.

http://i.imgur.com/qfB4PRs.jpg (https://imgur.com/qfB4PRs)

I know old cars have problems but is it really too much to want a car that sits level and brand name parts that don't disintegrate? I'm half tempted to just slap it back together and order the individual pieces to make coilovers to my own specs but if I can't even get a spacer lift to sit level there's no way I'll be able to do that correctly.

[bcrdukes]

Ouch, that sucks.

What alternatives do you have when it comes to shocks other than KYB?

[underscore]

The extra annoying part is I tried to keep it simple to avoid this kind of thing. I didn't use MR2 inserts or Subaru inserts or any of the other funky things people have done. I went with the most straightforward setup and ended up with 3 different ride heights, all of which are wrong, and a bunch of broken parts.

For replacements I can get FCS or Monroe for $30/ea, KYB or Sachs for $50/ea, or Bilstein for $200/ea plus shipping and crap. Or get into gravel coilovers for $2k US+.

[EvoFire]

I've had good experience with Bils and has had it on two of my cars. Get just the shocks though, whoever that they contract to build their springs suck.

[bcrdukes]

I run FCS on my 04 Mini. Good bang for buck. Not sure if ride height is consistent or not. The car has over 325,000 KM now. :p

[hud 91gt]

I've been fighting with the ride height of my car for a while now and I'm slowly losing my mind (and wallet). When I first put in the stock springs with new struts/mounts/isolators and 1" spacers in 2019? or so the car sat level and it was great. After doing a TSD event the rear hunkered down and won't go back up. I've emptied the trunk and reset the control arms a couple times and it still sits only 0.5" higher than stock. While resetting the arms again I had the sway bar unbolted and when I went to put it back I noticed that it doesn't line up evenly, I have to connect one end and then jack up the hub on the other side to get the bolt in. No clue what's going on there, my hope is just that the garage floor isn't level enough or something.

To try and at least get the car to sit level I took a spacer out of the fronts so they now have a 0.5" spacer. Reset the control arms, settled the suspension, etc and the drivers front still sits at 1" above stock and more concerningly the passenger front is 1.5" above stock. I've measured it front a couple different points in case the fenders are wonky and it's the same, 0.5" higher on the passenger side. I don't think the springs are side specific but I pulled both struts out (they look and measure identical) and swapped the whole assemblies so now the drivers front strut is on the passenger front side of the car and vice versa and the passenger side is still 0.5" higher. I slapped them in loosely so the swaybar is disconnected at both ends, the control arm nuts are loose, etc. As far as I can tell the only things that control ride height are the strut assembly, the strut tower, and the knuckle so again I have no clue what's going on, if any of you guys do please share. It's just a mac strut so not exactly fancy.

At this point I've half given up and decided to just replace the front strut mounts because the drivers side has gotten very sloppy, ditch the front spacers and swap the springs side to side because why not. I stripped the front strut assemblies apart and found that the passenger damper seems to be bad, it's not totally blown but it's way easier to compress than the drivers side, it comes up way more slowly and it doesn't extend fully on its own. I also found the bearing in that mount has a bit of play too, not as bad as the drivers side but I'm glad I ordered 2 new ones. I'm not very impressed with KYB at the moment, that's 1 bad damper and 2 bad mounts in under 10k km. At $50/piece that's not good value either. I should probably pull the rears too and see if they're bad as well.

http://i.imgur.com/qfB4PRs.jpg (https://imgur.com/qfB4PRs)

I know old cars have problems but is it really too much to want a car that sits level and brand name parts that don't disintegrate? I'm half tempted to just slap it back together and order the individual pieces to make coilovers to my own specs but if I can't even get a spacer lift to sit level there's no way I'll be able to do that correctly.
Since you swapped them left to right.. you either bent something or it’s the top mount?

[underscore]

The top mounts stayed on the strut when I swapped things around. It was the whole assembly, strut housing, strut insert, spring, and top mount. With those removed I can cycle the control arms and hubs much higher and lower than they can go with them in so I know that's not getting hung up on something.

Which makes me think something is bent, except nothing looks bent, and all the parts you would expect might get bent shouldn't control ride height. So I'm at a loss.

I went ahead and ordered two new FCS inserts for the front. Two of them was only $10 more than one KYB and if dampers are going to be consumed that quickly they may as well be cheap. I'd love to grab Bilsteins, they were great on my Jeeps, but that'd be $400 for the pair. Maybe once I get the height sorted out I'll splurge on nice dampers.